Wire chase/conduit through cabin top

We needed to run four AWG cable from the solar panels on the new hard dodger down below as well as route the cable for a GPS antenna and 12 volt accessory power  to under the hard dodger. We decided to use 2 inch PVC pipe with a 180 degree bend in the pipe to keep water out of the boat. The following pictures show the drilled holes and filling of the core and then gluing of the pipe in to the cabin top with epoxy.

We drilled the big hole for the pipe and took the opportunity to fill in with epoxy some bolt holes for hardware that was no longer there

You can see where we removed the core to fill with epoxy to seal it

Duct tape worked great for sealing the bottoms of the holes so that epoxy did not leak down below

The candidate poxy is showing where he has filled in the core and around the standpipe

Most of excess epoxy cleaned off

Underneath have her tape was removed

finished wire conduit . Eventually the deck will be sanded and new non skid will go around and over all holes

Eventually after the non skid is put on we will also paint the PVC pipe

Teak Cap Rail Restoration

By Eric of DE38 Windsong

A major project from the past year or so has been the restoration of the teak cap rails on Windsong. I had hoped the rail was just fine and could be left alone, but with each piece of hardware that got removed from it, the more I realized how damaged it was. On top of that, there were plenty of leaks under the cap rail where sealant had dried up and became useless. I eventually came to the conclusion that it had to come off, get restored, and re-bedded.

The first step came with removing the rails from the boat. This happened some time ago, as they needed to come off before I even started the deck restoration and painting. It wasn’t until I removed them that I had realized the extent of the damage. I had originally feared that they were unsalvagable in many spots, and I would have to replace the wood all together. Fortunately, that wasn’t the case. As with any project, I took my time doing research and figured I could restore the teak and make the original rails last for much longer.

Just to forewarn, I did a pretty poor job of photo-documenting this project. I have a few, but I didn’t photo the restoration like I should. This is in part to the fact that I had my Dad help me out with the initial restoration and repairs to the major problem areas. He took the rails to his garage to work on while I concentrated on other projects. When I got them back, all of the repairs were done and I had forgotten to photo the problem areas to begin with for before and after pics.

The process for the restoration was initiated by the works of Don […]

Extra insulation over fridge

Using reflectix  and vinyl we created a cover for the top of the fridge. This is a super easy and cheap project that improves fridge efficiency significantly . Ventrally we will do the same thing behind the kitchen utensil holder on the front of the fridge. If you slide your hand between the reflectix and the top of the fridge it feels very cold. However on top of the vinyl covered reflectix it is room temperature.

This is a link to the the insulation. We have used it to make ducting for our window ac unit to vent it down through a top hatch into the salon. We are gradually insulating the cabin walls and overhead with it as we do projects that expose those areas as well as the above project.

Reflectix BP24025 24-Inch by 25-Feet Bubble Pack Insulation

we used hvac tape to secure the vinyl to it.

Shelves instead of hanging space

We replaced the hanging rod in the closet on port side in the v-berth  with three Cedar shelves. It has increased usable storage space by about a factor of four.

Custom monitor mount and securing system

Bronze eyes and bungee cord that secure vesa monitor mount in the closed position while underway. This is the monitor on forward Salon bulkhead.

Main monitor at chart table.  I fabricated a stainless monitor mount that allows monitor to be used at the chart table, from the helm or allows it to fold up into the overhead out of the way.

The mount that I fabricated is pretty simple. It just uses stainless tubeing of the correct sizes so that one tube will fit inside another to allow it to pivot horizontally and vertically as well as slide from port to starboard.

304 Stainless Steel Round Rod, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, Annealed, AMS 5639/ASTM A276/AMS QQ-S 763/ASTM A276, 0.5″ Diameter, 72″ Length Stainless Steel 304L Seamless Round Tubing, 1″ OD, 0.76″ ID, 0.120″ Wall, 12″ Length Stainless Steel 304L Seamless Round Tubing, 3/4″ OD, 0.51″ ID, 0.120″ Wall, 72″ Length For mounting to the monitor I welded a piece of angle to the tubing and for mounting to the boat I used some flat bar and welded the tube to that. One one end I used 1/2 inch solid bar as a pin for one ind of the tube so that you can take the whole thing apart if needed.