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Securing stuff in the galley

Foaming soap dispenser secured with 5/16 bronze eyes and bungee cord. We refill the dispenser with dish soap. 1/3 soap 2/3 water. With it right over the sink it is really easy to wash your hands or dispense soap

Olive oil and other condiment bottles secured with 5/16 bronze eyes and bungee.

Here is a link to the bronze pad eyes I used. Sea Dog Pad Eye Bronze 5/16In

Link to misc bronze hardware Misc Bronze Hardware

Pump pot hanging from stainless hook for hot water

This Pump pot is great. It will keep water hot for 5 or 6 hours and even 9 hours later will be hot enough to hurt your hands if used as dish water. We keep hot water in it all day every day for cups of coffee, hot chocolate, instant cider, chai or tea. It took us a while to find the right pump pot. They are not all made equal. Of 4 or 5 we had tried this specific pot has worked the best for how long it will keep water hot.

BUNN 32125.0000 2.5 Liter Lever-Action Airpot, Stainless Steel

Microwave platform that can rotate into the salon or galley. Secured with Bungee and bronze hardware while underway. I had a friend with a microwave holder that pivoted back and forth between the galley and the salon that I loved. His was beautifully handcrafted out of wood. Alas I don’t have his level of wood craft nor the patience to take that long on such a minor project compared to much of what needs doing on the boat. So drawing on my minor welding skills I purchased stainless tubes, angle and rod and welded it up.

Here are some links to the raw materials I used in […]

Rebuilding the Companionway Hatch

By Eric of DE38 Windsong

Rebuilding the companionway hatch was one of those projects that sounded simple enough, but ended up being a very involved thing taking many months longer than anticipated. Just like with most of the boat, it is only when you take something apart that you realize the full extent of the damage and work to be done.

Sometime when the boat was still put together, I was inside during a rain shower noticing all of the water coming in from various leaks. One that came as a surprise was a steady leak coming through the sliding companionway hatch. I noted it and made sure to investigate it when the time came to focus on that hatch.

The time came and went, and before painting the deck I removed the hatch in its entirety to access the full deck, with the idea that I would do whatever I needed to do to seal up the hatch and make it leak free. When I began to remove the slats that make up the top of the hatch, the horrors beneath were revealed and instead of applying some sealant and calling it a day, I realized I had to rebuild the entire thing.

The pictures and captions below will tell the story: #gallery-1 { margin: auto; } #gallery-1 .gallery-item { float: left; margin-top: 10px; text-align: center; width: 50%; } #gallery-1 img { border: 2px solid #cfcfcf; } #gallery-1 .gallery-caption { margin-left: 0; } /* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes/media.php */ Companionway hatch and doors, pre-removal Companionway hatch and doors, pre-removal. You can see the wood was in a pretty weathered state. Companionway hatch and doors, pre-removal. You can see the wood was in a pretty weathered state. Companionway hatch and doors, pre-removal. You can see the wood was in a pretty weathered state.

Hatch frame after removing the sliding part.

Hatch back at home ready to be taken apart

After removing the bungs on the slats and pulling off the frame underneath, the damage was beginning to be revealed. The frame had a lot of rot and a huge crack down the middle of each side, and you can see a big hunk of wood that broke off from the end. All of this was restorable, with good old epoxy.

However, the real gremlin was revealed when I removed the slats. Underneath the slats and between the formica bottom was what appeared to be a piece of plywood that had completely rotten away. The leak I saw had done some major damage to the plywood supporting the hatch.

When I first saw this I didn’t even know what i was looking at. Was there some sort of veneer under the slats? It didn’t even make sense. I eventually put it together that it was plywood that had just rotten away.

Frame under the ply and slats. Lots of cracks and rot, but I committed to restoring the frame so I didn’t have to start from scratch.

Under it all was a formica panel that was the inside face to the hatch.

The hatch doors were in decent shape. They needed some mild restoration in areas where wood was damaged, but mostly just needed a cleaning, sanding and finish job. I also wanted to replace the glass with tinted acrylic and seal it up tight.

The inside of the doors had the same stain as the rest of the interior wood.

The glass frame was held on by some sealant, and was easy enough to remove with a scraper and hammer.

Glass pulled out, sealant was cleaned off and the whole thing was sanded down.

I don’t have any pictures between this and the last picture. But there the doors are all clean, sanded, restored, acrylic installed and sealed up.

Hatch frame getting the epoxy treatment.

More hatch and frame components getting the epoxy treatment.

Hatch slats getting a final coat of epoxy before reassembly. The pink is epoxy compound that I used to fill damaged and rotted areas.

I had a panicky moment when I tried to do a dry-fit before fully reassembling the hatch. One slat was missing, and I went on an easter egg hunt that took a few weeks to finish. I eventually found the slat behind all sorts of crap in my garage. You can see in this picture the difference between the cleaned and sanded slats and an untreated one.

Everything taped up and ready for reassembly. Each slat was bedded and sealed up with Life Calk polysulfide sealant. It was an extremely messy job, but it is sealed tight. What I don’t show and didn’t have a picture of was the new plywood piece that goes between the fame and the slats. I used my normal fir plywood with a few coats of epoxy to seal up and and avoid the fate of the prior ply. Instead of using a formica under-belly, I just painted the ply white on the bottom.

Once again I did a poor job with the pictures of reassembly and the bedding of the sealant. But here is the hatch getting bunged up.

All put back together and sanded down.

Restored frame getting installed and bunged.

Bungs! Installed with varnish, not glue or epoxy.

Final fit and the rear panel getting installed. Before installing I used a dry lubricant for the tracks.

3 coats of Cetol Natural Teak, 2 coats of Cetol Gloss to finish. Looks beautiful if you ask me.

You can see some of the repair work here. Glossy gloss too

Pretty shine

The whole thing all done up and in working order.

To see more of Eric and Windsong visit http://www.thequestforwindandwaves.com

Rebuilding the Butterfly Hatch

By Eric of Windsong

Downeaster’s come with a neat little butterfly hatch over the main cabin.  The “doors” or flaps or whatever they are called have some glass in them to give the cabin some light.  Unfortunately, my hatch leaked pretty badly as the sealant in the glass had faded away over time.  Like everything else on Windsong, that means a rebuild is in order!  This was no way near as painful of a rebuild as the companionway hatch.  The most difficult part of this was separating the glass from the wood, as it was all held together by sealant/adhesive and I had to be very careful taking it apart to preserve the wood.  The pictures and captions below can tell the story.

The hatch before taking apart. Weathered wood, crappy glass that leaks, the usual..

Another view pre-disassembly

Completely disassembled, cleaned and sanded. Notice how the flaps come apart into a few different pieces of wood. There are grooves that the glass rests in on the pieces, filled up with sealant to adhere it all together and seal up.

The wood got the Cetol treatment, same as the other hatches – 3 coats of Cetol Natural Teak, 2 coats of Cetol gloss using a 3M scrub pad to “sand” it down between coats.. It seems that in this picture, I was getting the Sierra Nevada treatment.

All put back together. I used Sikaflex 295UV for the sealant, testing it and it’s primer out before I use it on the large cabin windows. I replaced the glass with tinted acrylic.

Hardware installed, weather stripping as well

Interior view.

To see more of Eric and Windsong visit http://www.thequestforwindandwaves.com

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DE38 Windsong Making and Installing the Large Cabin Windows

By Eric of Windsong,

AT LAST…the big windows are FINALLY in! This is a huge step for me, as this particular project was much more involved than I ever expected it to be, and was a crucial step to sealing up the boat. Windows, ports, portlights, deadlights…they have many names; but for now I will just refer to these as windows.

Long time readers of the blog will know that I’ve pondered the question long ago what I will be doing with the large cabin windows. The original ones were very thin acrylic with cheap plastic frames and barely sealed in. They leaked, they cracked, they were overall unsuited for offshore work as I’ve read a few accounts of DE38 windows breaking easily under the pressure of waves. These windows needed an upgrade for safety as much as appearance. I pondered the choices for replacing the windows long ago here: http://www.thequestforwindandwaves.com/?p=227

Since then I have pondered further, and after much research I finally settled on the materials and the method for installing. In the end I decided to make my own windows out of tinted cast acrylic, installed using a fastener-less method with Dow Corning 795. I won’t re-write what has already been written on the subject, so I will just link you to the most important pieces I found that summarizes the research:

1. Maine Sail (link), renown guru of all things sailboats summarizes the choices between lexan and acrylic (plexiglass), the various sealants and methods of installing including the recommendation for not using fasteners. here: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/1000233-post16.html

2. This is an article that many people reference for installing fastener-less windows, aka “Sexy Windows” (click here for original Cruisers Forum discussion). The author originally uses heavy duty 2-sided tape for the installation, but in his notes at the bottom he […]

Super Efficient Boat Computer

I was needing an upgrade for my office computer for work and needed a replacement computer that was super power efficient due to the nature of limited electric power on a boat when using an inverter to power stuff.

Here are the components I used to build a system that uses 15 to 17 watts of power sitting at the desktop browsing the internet. The 24 inch monitor uses another 21 watts of power.

Nothing special about the case other than the USB3 ports on the front and the space size constraints of where I planned on mounting it in the boat.. Any Matx compatible case would work. This memory is listed by model number by the manufacture of the motherboard as compatable. I spent a few extra dollars over the cheap memory but it is worth it to know it works. I had a hard time picking a motherboard. There were several good choices but this one had more sata 3 and usb 3 connectors and was a bit cheaper than other comparable motherboards. So far I am pleased with it. Here is where we get pricey. This power supply is one of the best of the best. It is rated platinum level which means it is 94 or 95 % efficient. It is fanless and even so after running for a month or two solid you can touch the power supply and it feels cool to the touch. I already had a pcie ssd card in my old computer with ubuntu linux installed on it and I just moved it over to this computer. The same with 2 3tb data drives. I purchased this to hold a database that needed the fast access and larger size. I went to order the i7-3770T processor but found the Xeon version […]