I was needing an upgrade for my office computer for work and needed a replacement computer that was super power efficient due to the nature of limited electric power on a boat when using an inverter to power stuff.
Here are the components I used to build a system that uses 15 to 17 watts of power sitting at the desktop browsing the internet. The 24 inch monitor uses another 21 watts of power.
Nothing special about the case other than the USB3 ports on the front and the space size constraints of where I planned on mounting it in the boat.. Any Matx compatible case would work. This memory is listed by model number by the manufacture of the motherboard as compatable. I spent a few extra dollars over the cheap memory but it is worth it to know it works. I had a hard time picking a motherboard. There were several good choices but this one had more sata 3 and usb 3 connectors and was a bit cheaper than other comparable motherboards. So far I am pleased with it. Here is where we get pricey. This power supply is one of the best of the best. It is rated platinum level which means it is 94 or 95 % efficient. It is fanless and even so after running for a month or two solid you can touch the power supply and it feels cool to the touch. I already had a pcie ssd card in my old computer with ubuntu linux installed on it and I just moved it over to this computer. The same with 2 3tb data drives. I purchased this to hold a database that needed the fast access and larger size. I went to order the i7-3770T processor but found the Xeon version [...]
We have been living aboard for a year now. It has highlighted some of the drastic downfalls of boats and storage. The Downeaster 38 has a huge amount of storage space,however it isn’t particularly of a shape or size to make efficient use of. We are gradually rebuilding all the storage compartments etc into better shapes to hold particular goods both efficiently and securely. One such project that I just finished day before yesterday was tea and spice racks.
I like to drink hot teas and being me go a bit overboard on the acquisition and storage of lots of different loose leaf teas. I have about 40 plastic containers with O ring seals with tea’s in them. At the house it was no big deal,I had a cupboard that they all neatly stacked in. On the boat there is no cupboard the right size and being that it moves they would fall over anyways and end up in a big jumble. In real life I found that a big jumble just due to the shape and size of the storage areas available was how things stayed.
I also like to cook and tend to have about a dozen spices,oils and other condiments that I use on a daily to weekly basis,with another 20 or so that I use weekly to monthly. Again,can we say jumble. I could never find what I wanted.
This state of affairs both in the teas and the spices tended to leave me a bit grumpy and irritated at having daily usability issues. If something is bad enough that it is affecting my outlook on life then it needs to be fixed. What to do though? I really didn’t like the cabinets as a solution as small stuff gets hidden [...]
David Gill of Tondelayo sent in some pictures of his current projects. I have to say they look nice. Below are a short description by him and pictures of each project. If you have questions I’m sure you could get him to talking about it on the forums
I thought I’d send you an email with a few photos rather than trying to upload them into the forum. These shots show how to make a “steam box”to steam bend timber. It’s really easy. All you need is a heat source eg gas burner,a pot joined to some Stormwater pipe and away you go. Note that I used standard PVC pipe which loses it’s integrity above 60 degrees Celsius and it still worked however I believe it’s possible to get better quality pipe that will handle the steams elevated temp. Also,make sure you have a hole at each end to allow the release of the pressure that builds up. The trick is to get your timber finished to the desired profile before bending. I was working with hardwood and trying to bend it along it’s width which is probably the hardest possible technique but I still got results. (I went through a few prototypes prior to succeeding.) Happy to discuss further if anyone’s interested. Here’s some shots of Tondy’s floor. It took a lot of elbow grease to sand it back to bare timber before applying 1 coat of a mould inhibitor then 3 coats of Feast Watson Floor Clear Polyurethane. The good thing about this product is that if I want to tidy it up in a few years it just needs a clean and a light sand then you just put a fresh coat straight on. A word for the wise,If [...]
Universal 298854 Car Quest-86390 Kubota 70000-43081 Wix 33390 NAPA 3390 AC TP807 Purolator PER-262-F Motorcraft FG72 fleetguard # ff5226
Fram P-7514 Fram P-3726 Big-A 538 Baldwin BF940
Oil filter universal part number 299584
Impellers Category:Manufacturer:Universal Part Number:295628 Description:OBERDORFER IMPELLER
This part number is for the impeller alone. Universal kit 200209 includes this impeller and the gasket necessary for installation.
The following part numbers are generally considered alternatives / replacements for one another:
Universal 295628 Universal 200209 Globe 815 Oberdorfer 6593 Westerbeke 17556
To see why we went composting read the articles that precede this one. All the shit that accumulates 1 http://downeasteryachts.com/archives/1366 and 2 http://downeasteryachts.com/archives/1707
After the previous experiences we installed a natures head composting head. The following composite article is a compilation of the installation and two years of usage and a few answers to questions others have asked us.
We installed the “Natures Head”composting toilet this past weekend. It fits perfectly side to side (read “it is a tight fit”) to get it in the head compartment you take the top section off the bottom section. This is just a matter of unclipping two clips,one on either side of the unit and then sliding the top section left 3 inches or so as you lift it up to disengage the rear hinge. At that point both pieces will easily fit through either of the head doors.
Here is a few picture of the two stainless angle pieces that hold the unit to the floor. The first shows how we marked where to set the mounts. We put the head in place and them made sure that we had room on either side for the crank to turn on the right without hitting the wall and the latch on the left side of the unit to open as well as being able to slide the top to the left when pulling it off the hinge when removing it. Once it was spaced right we took a pencil and just drew a line around the backside of the angle pieces to mark where they went.
After drilling the holes with a 3/16 inch drill bit we placed the mounts over the holes to double check everything.
And then used 14×1 1/2″stainless steal oval head screws to attached [...]