The original headliner material was vinyl, attached to thin strips of non-marine plywood and non-stainless steel staples. The real problem with this original, factory installed headliner is that it prevented access to all of the deck mounted hardware. Another serious problem with the deck mounted hardware is that it was embedded into the fiberglass at the factory, requiring a chisel and hammer to gain access to the underside of the deck hardware. If a DE has not removed the original headliner there is every possibility that all of the deck hardware bedding is original and has long since failed, thereby exposing the deck core to water infiltration.
We took the time to remove the old vinyl (vile) headliner and attachments (weeks of work plucking rusted staples) and installed a headliner system that can be removed to allow continual access to deck hardware in order to inspect and replace, as needed. We installed a product called Spectropile and used Velcro strips bedded with 5200 marine caulk and stainless steel staples. (We have since embed the Velcro with epoxy putty. Or another option is Velcro now comes in has self-adhesive strips, however, there has been no reviews as to how the glue will hold up to the marine environment.)
The original vinyl/foam backed headliner was susceptible to mildew and mold formation. Also, from a structural standpoint, preventing access to deck mounted hardware maintenance and inspection is a real structural issue.
Spectopile is not an inexpensive material, but is well suited to a marine application, such as headliner. (We also use if for chafe protection and removable fender covers–very durable.) Not only is Spectropile made from recycled materials it is […]
Attached are severalphotos of the steel bow sprit/anchor platform, and a few thoughts of about this project. Typical of many boat projects, this one started out modest and innocent enough. When I first purchased the boat I wanted to remove the anchor windlass to clean and service it. After removal though, I found rot around the mounting bolt. There begins the real motivation for the bow sprit/anchor platform redesign.
The bow sprit/anchor platform was completely redesigned and replaced with cruising in mind. It is constructed of steel tubing. Aesthetically I believe there is no significant difference in appearance from the original painted wooden bow sprit.
The primary difference is that the wooden bow sprit was actually heavier and the lamination and wood are higher maintenance than steel.
The new steel bow sprit has transferred the weight of the anchors inboard and provides a strong, integrated bow pulpit assembly; which, provides greater structural integrity than the original arrangement. The anchor rollers are custom designed to receive the two bow anchors (CQR and Plow). There are also additional custom features included such as attachment points for fair leads/snatch blocks for the anchor roads, jack lines, jib downhaul and difter (spinnaker). A few photos are included to illustrate the new platform with and without the platform base. The new bow sprit is extremely seaworthy with strong backing plates and reinforced platform assembly. It should hold under extreme sea anchoring as well as conventional anchoring conditions.
Since the last couple posts have been topical to plumbing and head systems I asked Bob if I could copy over a writeup from his blog from where he replaced the plumbing on the head on Eolian. If I were replacing the plumbing rather than taking it out forever then I would most likely follow in his footsteps. I think his solution is much cheaper and vastly more durable than the standard marine hoses and fittings. So enjoy. 🙂 Scott Carle
By Bob Salnick When we took possession of Eolian, the PVC and rubber head hoses had been permeated by the ‘contents’ of those hoses, making a bad smell everywhere down below. We replaced all of those hoses early on with good hose. In 2006, about 7 years later, those hoses had again been penetrated. My research (oh sure, NOW do the research…) showed that even the highest grade hose (which costs in excess of $10/ft) permeates in 10 years. The cheaper grades are supposed to last only 5 years. I guess that means that we did better than most.
The same research showed that solid PVC pipe (like that used in houses) will NEVER permeate. So, OK – out with the hose, and in with solid PVC pipe. First problem: most plumbing supply houses stock only ABS for sanitary fittings (long sweep elbows, sanitary tees, etc… Things can get hung up in regular sharp-cornered elbows, and sewer snakes can’t be made to go around sharp corners.) But we have found a couple of stores close by that stock PVC fittings, and in ALL the weird angles we will need to use to run pipe in a boat. Also, some short lengths of hose are still needed to make connections at the ends of the pipe runs – stuff moves […]
Last week we got a lot done on the boat but also ran into some issues with the plumbing which led to engine issues that led to anchoring issues. See http://downeasteryachts.com/archives/1366 for all the details.
Today I worked up my courage and headed back to the boat to deal once and for all with the malodorous mess that Valkyr’s head system had become. The first thing on was the respirator (this respirator worked great. No odor got through it and when I got to the clorox phase it totally filtered the chlorine out also). After the respirator came the industrial rubber chemical gloves and a dozen 3 mil contractor garbage bags. The next three tools that I used to remove everything were one largish flat bladed screwdriver, one set of vise grips and a pair of straight edged shears. The screw driver for hose clamps and prying, the vise grips for holding the nuts on the screws that the pump was mounted with while I unscrewed them, and the shears for cutting through hoses if needed.
I promised pictures in my last post but we forgot the cameras when we went to the boat today and I wasn’t willing to put the job off now that I had nerved myself up to actually doing it so I’m afraid there will be no nasty disgusting before pictures. However I should be able to graphically paint a really disgusting picture of it in your minds, so listen up and read on.
First let me paint the picture again of what we found last week. In the small bilge space just aft of the v-berth area that the holding tank lies in was where most of the plumbing for the holding tank system came together. To port up through the closet and into […]
You know all the shit that accumulates in the corners of a boat? This story isn’t about that kind of shit. This story is about the kind that leaks through the ruptured diaphragm in a pump on a hose that terminates in a holding tank.
If that opening doesn’t grab attention, I’m not sure what will. Let me backtrack just a bit.
We actually spent three days working on the boat this week. The teak on deck is now at about 90% and in some area’s even has three coats of Tequa. We are really liking the Tequa, it goes on thin and penetrates on try teak for the first couple of coats and on the third coat gives the teak a soft luster that is just beautiful. So far we have used about one and a quarter quarts and it has covered 90% of the boat in two coats and some parts of the boat in three coats. I think we will stop at three coats and then see what durability is over time. Pictures of all this will be forthcoming in the next week or so.
Another little project that looks very promising is my bung replacement method I came up with for all the missing teak bungs in the screw holes of the cap rail. Many of the holes are now not deep enough to put new teak bungs in. I found some brown silicone at Lowes in a standard size caulking tube that I have experimented on. If you tape over the holes and then cut out the outline of the hole in the tape with a razor you then have a perfectly masked hole. You squeeze in some silicone, lightly squeegee the excess off and immediately pull up the tape. It leaves a very nice […]
If donating please state in the extra info field during the donation process if you do not want to be publicly credited for your donation on the forums donation page.
Or jump to Amazon from here to purchase stuff. This gives us a very small referral fee that costs you nothing when you actually purchase qualifying products on amazon.
Recent Comments