sv Bluesky: Passage from St Helena to Salvador, Brazil, May 2010
The passage from Saint Helena to Salvador, Brazil is 1,914 nautical miles. As Blue Sky sailed away from the island a pod of dolphins bade us farewell. Fourteen days later we arrived in Baia de Salvador, Brazil!
The voyage was calm and we rarely had to touch the sails. Everyday we put the trolling line out so we could enjoy a fresh fish for dinner, but had no luck, not even a bite. Becalmed for a couple of days we were forced to motor. This delighted the children as they had all the electricity they needed for DVD’s and Game Boys. Left is a photograph of a typical South Atlantic squall, fortunately they did not produce much wind, unlike the ones we encountered in the Pacific Ocean.
The tall buildings dot the skyline of Salvador. This historic town was once the capital of Brazil. Begining in 1549 until the role was transferred to Rio de Janeiro in 1763. Until then the city was the second most important Portugese capitol second only to Lisbon. This was due to its huge trade in sugar and gold. There are two sections of the city, the upper or Pelourinho, which is a Unesco World Heritage sight. The historic colonial architecture dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries, built atop a cliff. You can access this area either by an elevator, built in the 1930’s or a cable car on an inclined plane. The children prefered going up on the train, but both are spectacular!
Anchoring Blue Sky behind the circular Forte de Santo Antonio in the small craft harbor. The fuel dock was right next door and the men in charge lived aboard the barge. We had read that there could be petty crime in the anchorage but possibly because of our friends on the fuel barge we experienced nothing of the kind. Instead we were greeted only with kindness from everyone we met. I think our little “ambassadors” have a great deal to do with our good luck!
Exploring town there is a church on every corner, we read that there are over 365, one for each day of the year
the Greja de Sao Francisco, built in the Baroque Style in 1723, and is one of the richest temples in Salvador. The gold plated wood carvings on the altar and the fine Portuguese glazed tiles surrounding the walls are dramatic. We were lucky to arrive on a day when there were guides. It was a fantastic tour.
Above we are at the top of the elevator on the upper section of the city, looking at the circular fort and small boat harbor. Blue Sky is anchored behind the fort out-of -view.
The San Antonio light, is the first light house in the Americas. In 1839 the roatating kerosen lamp was located in a wooden tower.. In 1890 the structure you see today was installed with a 3.5m lens, this mechanism is still in use. The light was electrified in1932 and can be seen 38 miles off shore. Above: Phoebe and Drake pose at the light’s base.
For our first visit to Brazil this was a very good choice. Checking into the country was realitivly easy. Thankfully the dock master had all the paper work we needed and provided it to us in advance! To do this he charged a small fee. In my opinion it was worth every Reais! There are small luncheonettes all around town and we managed to sample most of what Brazil could offer. The buses were very efficient and it was easy to get to the shopping to re-load our provisions. The people were very friendly, it was sometimes confusing to communicate, as our Spanish, although close to Portugese does not quite match up. Even so with the patience of the some of the nicest people we have had the great fortune to meet we were able to get by. We did get lucky at a book store and found a copy of a Portugese/English dictionary. Each night we would work on the words that we had needed that day. Little by little our vocabulary increased with the children being best able to absorb our new language. Many of the children we met loved to practice their english with us and assisted us in learning new phrases and translating menus. There is a big push for this generation of students to learn english having one hour of the school day devoted to studying english.
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