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Forepeak deck leaking
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White Falcon
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January 20, 2018 - 6:18 pm
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Greetings fellow DE38 owners. I am a new owner of a DE38 ( 1976). I have a stubborn problem with a dripping forepeak deck. I removed the headliner because I discoverd it was soaking wet, and had been for a long time. The entire underside of the deck is damp on the inside most of the time with slow drips of water in the center near the point where the Deck makes a sharp rise. I have caulked everything I can think of and any deck cracks, fittings, mouldings etc. Is this a problem area for most boats, or just mine? It's almost like the rain is being absorbed into the deck!! But that seems very unlikely. Pictures attached. Any thoughts???? I can't replace the headliner without fixing this problem.

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Scott Carle
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January 21, 2018 - 10:23 am
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Not normal at all. However from the description are you sure it is a leak and not condensation. This time of year with the cold weather if you heat the inside of the boat and it is  cold outside you can get  condensation. It can seem like a leak as it can generate extreme amounts of water. Flip side of that is usually your looking at ports hole fittings, through hulls fittings on the inside and other areas that get much colder that the rest of the interior due to the cold outside. I have never noticed that much condensation even in just below freezing conditions here in the south where it is relatively humid.

 

If it is a leak you will notice water during/after a rain. If it is staying damp or condensing water over a longer period of time and on dry days then it's a condensation issue. The original deck core material was foam which because of how insulation it is reduces general condensation on exposed areas inside the boat. If someone recored at some point and used plywood instead of foam, then that area might get colder than the foam core areas and produce more condensation.

 

Basically I'm just throwing stuff at you to think about. I would take and mop up all the water on the exposed overhead and then just watch it. Is the water dripping from somewhere else and running there? Or is it just getting damp and dripping. One is possibly a leak while the other is condensation. Usually the vinyl seals those areas off in a dead air space so that you can't get airflow over the underside of the deck. This keeps it from condensing water out of the air. However if you did have a leak in to that area then it would trap water inside it..

Maybe you have a two fold problem? A leak and with the vinyl off it is condensing. Careful observation is going to tell you what you have going on. maybe run a hose on a spray setting on deck to simulate rain for 15 or 20 min.. Or just hang out on the boat on a rainy day and observe. Also on a dry day just hang out for a few hours and observe. You can take a  couple towels and get that area dry and then see what happens over the next few. does it stay dry? slowly condense water where you dried? leak water from somewhere else.

 

If you have a leak sometimes it is not obvious where it is from. Just because you find out where inside it is leaking doesn't mean it is from on deck right there. Some times water can follow a screw in one place and run downhill to another screw that leaks inside. Or a cavity inside the the foam can fill up till water goes uphill a bit because of the pooling of water and leak out around an slightly uphill screw.  One of the irritating things about our boats and honestly most other boats built is that most manufactures don't take the time to properly do penetrations of the deck. They just drill a hole through the deck and bolt stuff on. So you have a screw going through the outer skin into the core and then through the inner skin. If you get a leak it then gets the core wet and can leak into the boat as well as into the core. Properly done they drill a hole, in the outer skin take out the foam between the two skins and then back fill with epoxy or resin. Let it cure and then drill the hole through the solid plug that has been made. At this point if you get a leak it is guaranteed to only be from that one hole and your core isn't getting wet. Most of us when we do repairs, upgrades or fix leaks on our boats will do this so that we gradually fix all these potential issues with core penetrations.

 

I hope some of this helps.. I'm basically just brain storming and spewing it out with the keyboard. You probably already know a lot of this but sometimes it helps to hear it again if so.

 

Good luck,

Scott

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Patrick Twohig
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January 22, 2018 - 2:10 pm
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It's probably around the Samson posts on the foredeck.  They cut square holes through the deck and ran them through the deck and bolted them into the bulkhead between the v-birth and the chain locker.  They put teak beading at the base of the posts to conceal the holes through the deck, but that doesn't seal it.  Perhaps they did seal it when they built the boat in 1979, but it's probably broken loose.  If you take that teak beading off around the base of the Samson posts you will be able to see daylight through the holes.  The bowsprit is thru-bolted to those posts so they're pretty crucial to the structure of the bowsprit, as those are bolted into the bulkheads in the chain locker.

On my boat, I replaced my whole bowsprit and glassed over those holes completely and cut the Samson posts off because they had termites.  I compensated for the structural loss by adding more bolts through the deck and properly backing the bowsprit with marine grade plywood and aluminum plates.  I have not had any leaks since those Samson posts were glassed over.

My suggestion is to pop off that teak beading and get some caulk in there.  Hose it all down and see if you can find water coming in.

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Patrick Twohig
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January 22, 2018 - 2:16 pm
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Picture for reference.  https://i.imgur.com/PpDDk6I.jpg

I'm not saying you need to cut those off, but do look at what's underneath that teak beading.  I would have just done it myself if I hadn't needed to replace the bowsprit entirely.

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White Falcon
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January 22, 2018 - 7:25 pm
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Thanks to Scott and Patrick.  I don't believe my issue is condensation. I had all the headliner removed, and even with a propane heater down below, I could run my hand across the cabin top, and it felt dry everywhere except for the forepeak deck which felt very damp. Then I tried a test covering a 18" x 18" section of the foredeck underside with two layers of insulation (after wiping down with a rag). A few days later, I checked that area, and as usual the overhead was damp to the touch and the same under the insulation. So I don't think it is a condensation problem.

After further examination, I noticed that the water always drips in the dead center (highest point) just before it turns up sharply. So if the water was getting in to Port or Starbd of the centerline it should run down to the corners because of the deck curvature, and would not go "uphill" towards the center. Therefore, it seems like the water must be coming in from above the dripping spot, or forward along the centerline. That would indicate something up around the bowsprit maybe. There is no leaking in the chain locker, so the water must be traveling through the deck somehow. Scott mentioned that the deck in that area was likely built with a foam core. I wonder if that is porous enough to allow water to be transported?? Or maybe there are big voids inside??? Everything looks original to me, I don't see any "aftermarket" repairs.

Since Patrick has me thinking about the bowsprit and samson posts, I have covered that entire area with a tarp, all the way back to the hatch. I will now wait for the deck to dry up, then I will pull the tarp forward 12" at a time, and watch for leaks. At some point the dripping will start again, and I should have a pretty good idea where to look. 

The irritating thing is, I have caulked everything up forward that I could get to. I can't imagine water getting in any of those places where I caulked the hell out of everything, but I could not really get at the bowsprit base very well.

Thanks for the help, at least I know this is not a common flaw with the Downeasters, and I will fix it eventually.

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Scott Carle
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January 23, 2018 - 10:06 am
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Couple of follow up notes:

 

First the propane heater 🙂

So the major byproduct of un-vented propane heaters when running is moisture into the air. So if you run one for a while it will up the humidity in the cabin which causes your condensation to go crazy. I have used them in my boats before and it is a balance as they do work great for heating but they will leave the whole inside of the boat covered in condensation in cold weather. I had a vented propane heater on valkyr for a while that worked brilliantly when it worked. Most of the time it didn't like to start, but that is a different issue all together. When running it radiated heat but vented the combustion products outside the boat so you got the heat but not the moisture.

 

Next..

Not saying you do or don't do this but just wanted it mentioned on this thread for completeness.  I only ever caulk and seal deck penetrations on deck, never inside the boat. I actually want water to drip where it is leaking outside so that I can catch it quickly before the water causes lots of problems with the core or other areas. If I seal inside and it leaks outside but not inside, then you can get water traveling through the  core if it isn't sealed and coming out somewhere far removed from where the leak actually is. Even worse is if it doesn't leak into the cabin but just stays in the core forever. with it never drying out it leads to core separation, loss of insulative capacity, bulging from water freezing in the core etc... lots of  bad things happen and you won't know it's happening till it is to late. Also even if it is a penetration that is properly done with no ability for water to get into the core  if it leaks on deck, you can get crevice corrosion of your stainless screws of bolts over time as they sit in a pocket of fresh water for months or years. Again you won't know you have an issue till something fails or you happen to take it apart for whatever reason and see the issue. I would rather deal with a small leak when it happens on deck than find out about it long after it causes residual damage to the areas around it.

The core on deck in a couple places has been replaced on valkyr where we had soft spots due to the above listed issues with leaks on deck but not below getting into the core. Most of the places it was replaced you can't tell at all. So it sometimes isn't obvious if it is original or now. Wish i could claim I had done that work to that standard myself but my father in law that we purchased the boat from had the work done the year before we bought it.

 

Hmmm.. ok another thought.

Samson Post leaking. I do keep it sealed so that when green water comes over the bow we don't get gallons of water at the time getting into the forepeak. However I don't worry if it leaks a little. The core is sealed with resin/epoxy on all cut open edges that the sampson posts go through. I have never had an issue with water in the forward  cabin so just haven't paid much attention but my belief is that any water leaking around the sampson post just drips into the chain locker. I actually sealed the lower chain locker from the rest of the boat with a through hull fitting in the bottom most point. I think ran a 1 1/4 inch hose from there back to a bilge box under the forward cabin floor hatch that pumps water from the shower, condensation from the A/C if installed, and water from the chain lockers overboard above the waterline from in the starboard forward cabins closet where I installed a anti siphon loop and through hull for the discharge line. I also put a one way valve in that discharge line just past the bilge box/pump itself as the discharge line even at a smaller 3/4 inch holds a bit of water in it over it's 7 or 8 feet of length till you get to the anti siphon loop in the top of the closet on the aft bulkhead of the closet. With this setup my bilges stay mostly bone dry.

Before I put in a bilge box to handle water in the front of the boat such as shower and chain lockers, the water from the shower was pumped to the main bilge where it was pumped out. Chain lockers just had openings permanently cut that allowed water to flow from upper chain locker to lower, then from lower to under the bed where the black water tank was located, then to the little compartment  under the step/seat at forward end of bed, then it flowed through the upper bilge the length of the boat under the water tanks and fuel tanks and then into the main bilge under the engine. Talk about a nasty design. I purchased a already designed plastic box about 12 inches on a side from west marine with, large debris filter and  a small bilge pump already in it for a bout 100 dollars. It is one of my best of projects for  get rid of wet bilges and odors in the bilge that I have done. That water is also the reason our fuel tanks and water tanks sometimes have corrosion issues. It carries dirt and debris with it that pile up on the leading edges and under the tanks, holds moisture there and contributes to pretty much 100% of any external corrosion you might have.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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mgav451
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January 24, 2018 - 12:18 am
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 I’ve got the same problem . the samson posts will leak. As mentioned I don’t think you could seal the posts properly. the posts being slightly higher from the upward curve of the bow water will get in there and run down (in the core ).( if your posts were just sqare holes cut in the roof and the core not sealed like mine was). You may want to check your eyebrow too mine was leaking and caused lots of water damage.The foam core on these boats are porous my whole cabin sides were filled up with water. The foam core (at least mine) is cross cut for ease of rounding corners etc. then glassed over. any slight void or crack in these and once filled with water these are like rivers. Water getting in there fills and spreads I’ve had to recore my whole cabin sides they were soaked from leaking ports. I’d put some pilot holes and check around. It’s hard to track where the water goes and stacks up depending on where the factory foam core sheets but up against each other this creates like a dam effect and if found water will fill up on one side and not the other. The foam core on my boat was like a sponge and had so much water in it I had to recore most of it. If your core is wet it will hold that moisture in there. I cut a 12x12 piece out to expose the core and put a space heater on it for 4 days it was still soaked once poked or prodded. Onece It’s wet it’ll stay wet for a long time! A good telltale is the staples used to staple the headliner i could tell where my wet core was from the staples rusting out from the root. Funny I read your post I thought I had my posts sealed up good but just got back from the boat and they are still leaking.

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mgav451
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January 24, 2018 - 12:22 am
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Look at my topic under deck bracing for recore. There’s some pics showing the cross cut foam core and you can see how it will channel water if there’s imperfections. 

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bobmcd625
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December 27, 2018 - 8:44 pm
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Scott.

Would you  please elaborate on the "bilge" box you describe, where it is located and how is it piped to the main bilge.  Sketch?

I am working in that area now getting the windlass and cables installed and want to address the bilge water at the same time.

Hope you have been having a nice holiday.

Fair winds

Bob

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Scott Carle
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December 28, 2018 - 8:28 am
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It has it's own pump and a pumps overboard through a through hull in the starboard closet in the vberth. I think these links have some of my past conversations on it or that talk about this in general.

http://downeasteryachts.com/fo.....-locations

http://downeasteryachts.com/fo.....bilge-pump

http://downeasteryachts.com/fo.....ump-advice

http://downeasteryachts.com/fo.....ain-locker

scott

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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bobmcd625
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December 28, 2018 - 5:23 pm
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Thanks so much, Scott.  Let me digest all of that info and then I'll probably have more questions.

The principle is clear enough.

Fair winds

Bob

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