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Leaking at Dolphin Striker Bow Eye Attachment
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Stan Foster
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May 15, 2015 - 1:43 am
Member Since: March 13, 2011
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My 1977 Downeaster 38 has a leak that appears, from the inside, to be near the eye in the bow where the Dolphin Striker wire attaches near the waterline.  Has anyone had this problem?  Any information about how the eye is attached? 

To repair the leak, it is probably necessary to remove the eye.  It is not clear how to do that.

It appears that the eye is bolted into the bow, probably by a single bolt.  But looking from the inside, there is no evidence of a nut or a backing plate.  Just below the leak, there is a small fillet.  Is it possible that the eye was bolted into place and then the nut and backing plate were glassed over?

Any information about the construction and attachment of this eye would be appreciated.

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Scott Carle
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May 15, 2015 - 9:00 am
Member Since: October 10, 2009
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Ok here it goes.

Sadly I know that someone wrote up replacing this with pictures but I can't find it. I think it was on their blog and maybe we didn't copy it to the de website? So here is what I know based on the links I shared and what I remember of the article of the person who replaced theirs. Also you might talk to Eric who posted in the 3rd link below on his blog. He didn't have pictures posted but I bet he did take them.

First the bobstay chainplate from the factory was usually a grid 3/8 inch stainless rods welded together and placed on the inside of the hull behind where you see the external bobstay fitting.  After installing the chainplate and bolting/welding? the eye to it, they would then bed it with fiberglass and then glass over the whole thing sealing it from the rest of the boat. That is why you don't see an inside chainplate. If you look closely you will probably be able to see where it is glassed over. You can simply take a grinder and grind away the glass over it to expose it and replace or work on it.

Reported issues with this construction method is that you can't see it to inspect it and there have been more than a handfull of cases of it breaking due to corrosion. However these seem to be after 20 or 30 years of use. So I suppose it has worked well in the real world. The lack of ability to inspect is the major complaint. If your going to expose it just plan on fabricating a new one rather than replacing a 30 year old part.

Your options are just to replicate what is there and then to glass it back in. This should be really cheap as all you need is about 30 dollars of 3/8 inch stainless rod.. 316 preferably and to have it welded up the same way the old one is. Second is to create a solid plate chainplate in a V shape so that it fits the indside shape of the hull with the exterior tang running through it and welded solidly. I have heard of those doing this and useing through bolts to hold it in place with it bedded in epoxy to get a solid fit and then when installed in 5200.. This allows for inspection easier but creates more holes in the hull and a greater likelyhood of leaks down the road.

Honestly, though I in general disapprove of how the factory did this, it does seem to on average have stood the test of time well as a cheap and relatively trouble free system.

here are some links that have some limited mentions of the bobstay chainplate that I could find. I hope this helps you.

Scott

http://downeasteryachts.com/archives/498

http://downeasteryachts.com/in.....ay-fitting

http://www.thequestforwindandw.....com/?p=565

 

http://downeasteryachts.com/fo.....hainplates

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Scott Carle
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May 15, 2015 - 9:58 am
Member Since: October 10, 2009
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here is a link to the  3/8 inch stainless rod on amazon I told you about.  Stainless Rod Link

You might have a local supplier where you are that is quicker or cheaper, sadly I don't any place I can go locally for stuff like that .

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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