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Climbing the Mast and the Spreader
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Patrick Twohig
San Diego, CA
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March 21, 2014 - 7:30 pm
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Any tips, or anything I should know about on these boats?I've been advised just not to do it because it's unsafe.  I know people climb masts all the time and I am a slight bit afraid of heights but I may as well get over that.

 

I know the spreader needs to be looked at and has some paint worn away.  I've been told that I may want to get a new aluminum spreader before I get serious about cruising, but I'd want to inspect this one before I made a call on that.  How long is the useful life of the spreader on these boats, and what is it made out of?  I'm guessing solid teak or mahogany.  Is it worth replacing with aluminum or just keeping painted?

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Scott Carle
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March 21, 2014 - 10:02 pm
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spruce is the standard I think for the spreaders but we rebuilt ours a while back in teak because whatever the prior owners used on ours rotted out.The wood works and works well but aluminium would be less maintenance. The wood just looks nice though 🙂 The teak to make new spreaders cost almost 300 dollars 4 or 5 years ago. I think you could buy the aluminium replacements as cheap or cheaper.. Of course if you have a good source of wood then the price could be much cheaper. You could make them out of treated 6 or 8 x 2 treated pine. Just find a couple pieces without any knots or flaws. You would have to replace them sooner.. maybe every 5 or 10 years if you took care of them but it would only cost you 20 or 30 dollars in materials. We used the old spreaders as a template to make the new ones, table saw, jig saw, belt sander and palm sander were all we used. Table saw was nice but not necessary.. We used it and the jig saw for rough cutting out the shape and the belt sander with 36 grit paper to shape the spreaders to the marked lines. Then palm sander to put a smooth finish on it. Being it was teak we didn't paint or treat them for a year or two to let the oils in the surface wear off so that varnish would penetrate and bond. 🙂 so we totally forgot after a couple years that we hadn't done it yet and its been 5 years or so and still just untreated teak. Seems to be just fine anyways.. got to love teak.. Only downside is weight aloft.. We probably added 4 or 5 lbs aloft using teak over spruce.

Going up the mast is no different than any other sailboat. Someone hauls you up in a bosun chair or if you have mast steps you can use them 🙂 even with mast steps to the spreaders on our boat we still are tied off and some one belaying us for safety when we go up.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Argyle38
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March 22, 2014 - 2:41 pm
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I would not recommend "Home Depot" grade spruce for spreaders. Most of the wood at places like that come from wood farms where they harvest young trees at ~5-10 years old. The growth is fast which makes the rings more spread out with more soft material between the rings. What you want for spruce ideally is old growth wood from either the Pacific Northwest, Maine or the Canadian Maritimes. It's more expensive but you can find it. I would say that if you wanted to go with cheaper wood, start with a harder wood, oak or poplar maybe.  Here is a write up I just did on the subject over on Sailnet:

 

Re: Making wooden spreaders. Material?

 

Argyle has spruce spreaders. They did suffer from some rot near the fixtures at the mast but I was able to address it pretty well penetrating epoxy.

If you decide to stay with wooden spreaders, the best thing for wooden spars is old growth Sitka Spruce from the Pacific Northwest or possibly old growth Douglas Fir from PNW or Maine/Canadian Maritimes. Doug fir is heavier but more rot resistant. Spruce is what has been traditionally used because of it's strength to weight ratio, and it is more susceptible to rot, but as has been said, rot is less of an issue aloft. Yardarms, cross-trees and gaff booms on classic sailing vessels were typically spruce.

Oh, and Aluminum does rot/corrode, and somewhat quickly if you don't isolate dissimilar metals, so nothing is worry free.

Old growth fir and spruce is available and it is obviously more expensive, but in my experience, it's still not as expensive as teak. There are several companies that are licensed to harvest naturally fallen old growth trees, both in the US and Canada. The wood is typically used for musical instruments, fine furniture, and, specialty construction. Our marine uses fall under specialty construction.

I replaced the bowsprit on Argyle with a piece of old growth Douglas Fir from PNW for < $800 total including shipping about 6 years ago. The piece was 8'x7"x7".

If you do go with a wooden spreader, use clear penetrating epoxy sealer (CPES) as a primer and use a lot of the stuff in any holes you have to put in the piece. If the spreader mounts to the mast with through bolts, fill the bolt holes with CPES by putting some tape on the bottom side of the hole, filling and letting the CPES be absorbed into the wood. Also, try to minimize any holes you have to put in to the wood. If something isn't going to be under loads, consider attaching it to the spreader with a medium strength sealant/adhesive like 4200 or 4000UV. If you do have to screw something in to the wood, screw the item down like normal, then remove the screws and fill the screw holes with CPES and let the epoxy cure. You can do a second application of CPES if you like. Then put the hardware back on the spreader but bed it down with butyl or a caulk like 4000UV, just like you would on the deck. The point is keeping any and all water out from between the hardware and the wood and especially away from that screw hole.

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S/V Argyle Downeaster 38 #40 Long Island Sound
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Scott Carle
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March 22, 2014 - 4:13 pm
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Obviously the more high quality the wood the stronger and longer lasting it will be. I have to say that I think a high grade of big box store wood, would be safe to use. When we replaced the old spreaders they had major rot and cracks as much as an inch across on top. I was freaked out they were so bad. The day before we had been out sailing in 25 knots of wind without reefing and just having a blast.. Still gives me the shivers. This was before she was mine, just to put my disclaimer in.. The next day I was taking pictures with my canon and a telephoto lens and for some reason decided to take pictures of the spreaders. From deck it just looked as if the paint was peeling on them. Took a high res photo at extreme telephoto and then put it on the computer and blew it up.. It showed some significant signs of cracking and discoloration that were small enough that you couldn't really see them from deck. That necessitated a trip up the mast and looking at the topside with major cracks and punky to the point you could dig it out with your fingers in places. To the best of our knowledge the spreaders were supposed to be only 2 years old at the point, having been replaced by someone we knew for the prior owners before Angela bought the boat who I in turn purchased it from. We were dubious about them only being two years old at that point.

 

My point being that those spreaders were incredibly weak and compromised but had stood up to some pretty decent wind and gusts to the point of being on the edge of over powered. Big box store wood is going to degrade faster than a good quality wood and not be as strong and I recommend good wood. However the cheap stuff will work and be safe up until the point it is cracking or rotting. The load on them is in column with the length of the spreader and the wood is most strong in compression like that. Now after saying that we replaced them with some pristine straight grain no knots teak. lol.. so maybe you don't want to do as I say but rather as I did 🙂 lol.

actually there is a forum topic on this already here that you can see pictures and commentary from some others also 🙂 Click Here

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Argyle38
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March 23, 2014 - 2:33 pm
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Holy cow dude, your spreaders looked like hell! Makes me really confident that my not-rotted spreaders are pretty well over-engineered for the task. I wouldn't have expected those to survive a 15 knot breeze much less 25!

 

The teak looks nice.

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S/V Argyle Downeaster 38 #40 Long Island Sound
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Scott Carle
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March 23, 2014 - 2:48 pm
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Right! thats what I was saying… those things were scary….. After being out the day before in 25knots and seeing those I needed to sit down and shake for a few minutes. It actually didn't look that bad till after I went up the mast and scraped off some of the paint that was starting to flake. Once the paint started to come off it was like "holy shit!!!!!". The pictures I posted reflect the paint scraped off. scary scary!!!!

 

Just to make sure ... It wasn't my boat back then 🙂 lol. After we got the boat I crawled all over it and started repairing a lot of stuff that needed it. I don't think anything else came even close to the seriousness of the spreaders though.. At least not in any safety way.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Patrick Twohig
San Diego, CA
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March 24, 2014 - 3:16 pm
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You had to pull the mast down to replace the spreaders right?

 

I read in another thread you managed to re-run all the shrouds/stays without taking the mast down, but I couldn't recall if you did the same with the spreaders.

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Scott Carle
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March 25, 2014 - 9:25 am
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oh... no.. [Image Can Not Be Found] no need to pull the mast down. You just ease everything up a little so the mast doesn't bend weird or anything when we totally slacked the uppers. then we went up the mast and pulled the old spreaders off.  let them slide down the stay at the tip and disassembled that at the deck. Took the main halyard and spinnaker halyard and ran them port and starboard to give the mast side to side stability till we built the new spreaders.. Once they were built we assembled the tip around the uppers at the deck and then used the halyard to pull the tip up while walking the spreader up at the mast. Might have been easier to just take the spreader up and install it and then assemble the tip around the upper stay... six of one/ half dozen of the other kinda thing. After spreaders were bolted in we just tightened the uppers again. There seems to be minimal amount of up and down adjustment to the spreader tip the way it is designed. We pushed it up as far as we could to get as  close to the proper bisecting angle as we could. It didn't move far and as best I can tell it is endemic of these boats and the design. Since masts aren't falling over on a regular basis I guess it is adequate as designed [Image Can Not Be Found]

 

honestly there isn't much you need to pull the mast down for ever unless you just want to break it all appart and refurbish it and everything in and on it 100%. You can pull any give individual thing off it and replace it in place with no issues at all other than maybe the mast head fitting with the all the pulleys and stuff on it. If your going to do a lot then doing it on the ground would be easier by far and less time consuming. If you don't want to pay to have the mast pulled you can take the extra time it takes to go up and down the mast and the more difficult work conditions doing so.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Patrick Twohig
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April 4, 2014 - 2:37 pm
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If you don't want to pay to have the mast pulled you can take the extra time it takes to go up and down the mast and the more difficult work conditions doing so.

Let's just say...other interested parties are under the assumption that climbing the mast is dangerous and I would kill myself.  I was looking at getting a MastMate ladder building a rope ladder and running it up the halyard.  I personally don't want to spend the money on a boat yard just to redo the spreaders.  If I did that, I'd probably want to just have the whole boat re-rigged at that point (while we're spending money).

I also feel like anybody who is getting serious about taking a boat offshore needs to accept the fact that a situation may arise where climbing the mast in the middle of the ocean may be a real possibility.  I wouldn't want to be climbing up there for the first time...

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Scott Carle
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April 5, 2014 - 9:36 am
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Going up the mast is perfectly safe if you use the proper safety precautions. We use two lines and a safety belt as well as someone on deck belaying one of the lines at all times.

Most people don't use the second line like we do but we are pretty cautious. So I would be wearing a rock climbing harness and tie the main halyard with a bowline to the harnnes with enough tail to tie a second bowline around myself that is just slack unless the harness turned loose. This would be the main line that holds my weight and would be used to lift me up the mast with the main halyard winch. Then I would most of the time have a second halyard tied around me in another bowline that stays a little slack. It is a pain and someone on deck has to take up the slack or let out slack on the second line at the same time as the main line. Sometimes I do without this line but if your being anal it is a proper redundant safety feature. Third I have a safety belt or line on me that goes around the mast to hold me close to the mast and that when I get to the spreaders  or mast top is tied in so that it not only holds me close to the mast so I can't swing away from it but also once I get to where I am going will keep hold me up once I tie it in over the spreaders or to a fitting at the mast head. A person at the foot of the mast belaying is required 100% of the time while going up and down and they need to be someone you trust to stay focused and on task. Your life depends on them. They need to be able to smoothly and safely crank you up the mast and know how to slowly and smoothly let you down afterward with you both communicating back and forth to slow down/ speed up / stop etc..

 

On our boat we have a big self tailing winch that is used to crank up and down.. don't ever trust the self tailing feature when someone is on the line. Use it and manually tail it. Even better if you have two people at deck level, one cranking and one as a dedicated tail. Once you are up and in position the line is around the winch and you lock tail down on a cleat or with a line clutch. You should have at least 3 or 4 wraps on the winch. When lowering someone you are probably going to have to go to two wraps on the winch to get it to smoothly slip to let them down. If you can do so with more wraps then use more wraps. Remember if you are using two halyards with one as a redundant safety then you need to give it slack at the same time with a second person or you need to give it a few feet of slack and then let the main one out the same amount and then more slack on the redundant one and then back to the main one. Always keep tension on your main halyard you are using and don't let it go slack at all ever while lowering someone. Just the secondary one.

 

I'm sure that others can throw in some tips that can help also. Most people use some kind of chair to go up and down the mast in.. anything from a fancy expensive  one with  convenient pockets to just a board you sit on with lines run to each corner and under it. I have used them and they are even more comfortable than a climbing harness but to be honest I like the safety of the climbing harness. I could be turned upside down and thrown around and will not come out of a climbing harness.  Not to mention that I can go online to one of the rock climbing shops and purchase a harness much cheaper than a bosun's chair from west marine or other chandelier.

 

You are right.. the first time going up the mast you will forget stuff and or be real slow and uncertain about going up and down etc.. It would be "not good" to try doing so the first time while under way on the ocean or away from the dock. that introduces a huge amount of movement you have to deal with on top of the just normal going up and down and working on the mast once in place. I would want to have done it enough at the dock that both you and the person at the foot of the mast know your jobs without thinking about it. Even if you know how to do it that well still always think about every step up and down.  Just one of those things that is easily doable for you but you never ever get careless about it.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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