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It Leaks!!!!!
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CAE
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October 6, 2013 - 6:19 pm
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Will butyl seal fasteners in wood as well as fiberglass? I was going to get some Life Calk, but I have a ton of butyl already. If it will seal on wood, I will use it instead.

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Scott Carle
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October 7, 2013 - 7:46 am
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yes i believe so. However you only want to use it where you are through bolting and have countersunk the hole for the butyl to form a sort of o-ring. Follow the directions on the mainsail link about using it.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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CAE
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February 9, 2014 - 12:44 pm
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Now that we're having multiple days of rain, I'm seeing more leaks. Great! I managed to get all the chainplates water tight, but now I'm noticing that just about all my stanchions leak through the cap rail. Even after taping around them , etc. Also just found a leak at the bottom of my compression post where it meet the fiberglass of the main cabin sole. PO took out all the teak flooring, so I just have a glass sole. So I guess I can check it through the plate under the head shower grate? The deck looks tight around the mast. So is the water coming in somewhere up the mast?

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Scott Carle
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February 9, 2014 - 5:31 pm
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most likely it is coming down the wiring in the mast and then down the inside of the compression post I would think. You need to check the wiring inside the compression post and see if it is dripping down it. I believe you can access from inside the head. At least ours had a board with a bunch of screws holding to the compression post in there that looks like an access.. lol... sadly though I have intended to open it up and look for years I have never gotten around to it.

scott

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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CAE
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February 9, 2014 - 10:16 pm
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I'll take a look. I thought the access was underneath the teak grid on the head floor?

Today a friend and I took a grinder to the existing stanchions and cut off all the bolt heads. The access to the nuts was just too lousy to keep trying to unscrew them. Once the stanchions were off, I put 5200 down the holes and the covered the whole thing with adhesive patch used on house siding. That should take care of those SOB's for now. When the weather clears, I will fill the holes with epoxy and reattach the stanchions a few inches away with solid wood screws to the caprail. 

 I will tackle the leak at the compression post and the head tomorrow. As much as I dislike this leak fixing routine, I guess I needed to get it done and it's better at the marina than out in the big blue.

 

I looked behind the panel in the head and the wires are there, but I don't see water. The stanchion patches seems to be working. But, now I think that the deck may be leaking in some spots where there looks to be stress fractures on the deck...but there's not sponginess on the deck. I guess I will try to grind into the deck at the fractures and see if it's going through.

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CAE
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March 5, 2014 - 2:24 pm
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OK. It rained for a few days and the wires running down the mast showed no water on them or in that area. 

I think it may be around where the mast meets the cabin roof. I've noticed most boats in my marina have a boot of some kind at this juncture of where the mast meets the cabin roof and mine does not have anything like a boot. Just the mast going into a collar. Does everybody else have some kind of boot there????

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Scott Carle
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March 5, 2014 - 5:49 pm
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Our boats normally don't have a boot as they are deck stepped. Keel stepped boats that the mast penetrates down through the cabin top and  the heel of the mast is stepped below on the keel do have a boot around the mast and the mast partners? where it penetrates the deck to keep water out. The only penetration through the deck at all for  the mast  should be for the wires to come down below and maybe some bolts to hold the plate on deck that the mast steps on.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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svbodhran
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March 6, 2014 - 4:40 pm
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The mast step is just an aluminum plate with a small raised lip that the mast slides down over.  The lip has a small limber hole in it to drain water out, but clogs up quickly and it pretty much useless.  The plate is screwed to the deck with three screws.  These three screw holes and the wiring conduit are the only points that water could be getting through.  If there's no water coming down the wiring, then I don't think you'll be able to fix the leak without taking the mast down. 

 

Jason

DE32 Bodhran

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CAE
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March 6, 2014 - 5:13 pm
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Thanks. I will try to get a better look at the leak. It seems to be pooling at where the compression post meets the gelcoated sole.

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Scott Carle
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March 7, 2014 - 9:13 am
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water can come in at the portlight and run down and pool at the bottom of the bulkhead there and down to the deck..... all chain plates are there in head. maybe the most aft one would leak to that area also (maybe)

Just brainstorming.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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CAE
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March 7, 2014 - 1:17 pm
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Since removing the mast is almost the last thing I want to do....I will be paying very close attention to where this water is coming from the next time it rains. Thanks Scott.

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Scott Carle
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March 8, 2014 - 12:19 am
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I hear ya.... We have a leak on starboard at about the same distance from the bow that we have never been able to find. I have seen it leak majorly in the rain and then the next rain not leak at all. Just weird. Haven’t seen it now in about a year so I think some project we did must have fixed it maybe without us even knowing it. Just weird. The nice thing about our boats is that all the wood is teak and pretty  impervious to getting wet. The teak ply is still susceptible but still pretty resistant. The think on our boat that is worries us is the ply being so old and dry.. it has degraded it a bit in a place or two. However we have been treating with tung oil mixed 50/50 and 75/25 with a citrus oil as a thinner. It has rejuvenated the wood a lot. Mostly though all the wood on valkyr is in exceptional shape physically. If I was willing to sand or even just strip, clean and redo the wood it would look like new throughout the boat. Just scrubbing and cleaning and then putting 4 or 5 coats of thinned tung oil on it though has given it that rich and sadly darker old wood sheen. It is to me other than the darker part gorgeous.... I really love light and airy but am unwilling to paint any of the teak as even though it is darker is is gorgeous. Shame to paint over something you can't even get on a newer boat nowadays because it is to expensive 🙂

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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CAE
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October 8, 2014 - 1:11 pm
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It rained again, finally. I found two more leaks (the rest I've managed to fix)
These two are the both where I think cabinet mounting cleats used to be located as they're little holes that were obviously drilled at one time on the inside below where the walk ways are on the deck. But I can't figure out where the water is coming in as the deck surface looks ok. A little surface hazing, but basically ok. Has anyone else encountered this?

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Scott Carle
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October 8, 2014 - 4:00 pm
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lol... if so I haven't figured it out yet 🙂

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Erick
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October 9, 2014 - 9:58 am
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CAE said:

It rained again, finally. I found two more leaks (the rest I've managed to fix)
These two are the both where I think cabinet mounting cleats used to be located as they're little holes that were obviously drilled at one time on the inside below where the walk ways are on the deck. But I can't figure out where the water is coming in as the deck surface looks ok. A little surface hazing, but basically ok. Has anyone else encountered this?

YES, I am encountering this.  Long story but it might be helpful to some:

 

In the course of my boat rebuild, I have completely reconditioned the deck to almost new status.  I re-bedded everything on deck, including the caprail.  I expected to have a completely dry boat.

 

This summer though, rain came hard and often.  Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) for me, it revealed a lot of leaks around the boat that I thought had been fixed.  The most obvious ones were coming form under the caprail.  I was furious because that was a huge job to restore those rails and bed them.  But I had a few helpers with the bedding, and I guess I did not instruct them to use the proper amount of sealant underneath them, and the bad job led to leaks.  I had to completely pull off the rail and re-bed it once more.  I think it is sealed well now, including the newly installed chainplates.

 

Before I rebedded the rail once again, I applied a layer of fiberglass on the outer edge of the hull-deck joint.  There were a few small cracks on the joint that were letting water in near the galley.  In order to not have that happen again, I figured I would glass it all over before bedding the rail.

 

Just when I thought I had sought out all of the leaks, water kept showing up in the galley, pooling around the bottom of the oven area.  Eventually I sat there in the boat during a strong rain and finally noticed where the water was coming from: the underneath the side deck through the core itself like you mentioned.  

 

When I was mocking up the galley and saloon cabinets, I screwed the cleats back into the existing holes in the overhead/under the side decks.  I noticed after removing the cleats a few weeks later that they had water stains around the screw holes.  Turns out the core under that deck was pretty soaked.  I proceeded to open up the entire side deck in the galley and saloon and replace all of the wet core.  A small area I didn't get to, right near the deck drain in the galley, I had drilled about 12-15 holes to let any water drain out and to dry the core right there.    It was through one of these holes that I noticed the water was coming out of during the rain.  

 

I immediately went on deck to try to find the source of the water intrusion.  After a little search, I found a ding in the non-skid right near the spot in the galley. The ding was an open hole that exposed the core and would allow water in.  I must have dropped something on the deck to have made such a hole.  But I ground it out to a bevel and filled it up with thickened epoxy.  

 

I believe my leaks are finally taken care of, but the other day I noticed a small amount of water pooling in the same area of the galley, and the suspension is that more water is coming from the core.  I will have to search more to find the source of the water intrusion, but at a few passes nothing stood out.  

 

Long story short, water is getting into the core of your deck somewhere, and it must be stopped at the source.  I am fighting the same fight, though with extreme frustration as I thought I had taken care of all that [Image Can Not Be Found]

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CAE
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October 9, 2014 - 11:08 am
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Yes, it sound like we are having the same problem. I've completely resealed the cap rail and chain plates as well as the all windows. My deck looks solid as well. I think I'll grind down the glass on the deck right above the leaks and epoxy the area. But I suspect that the holes leaking the water are really just outlet drains for the water thats getting under the glass. The eternal question is as always , "where" is it entering…??

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CAE
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October 31, 2014 - 2:24 pm
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I'm pretty sure my chain plates are leaking through the bolt fasteners. Any suggestions as to the best way to rebed these so they don't leak.
Thanks

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Scott Carle
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October 31, 2014 - 2:55 pm
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hmm.. are the holes in the chain plates or hull rounded/oblong from working over the years? if so I would get new ones. The oblong rounded holes will break the seal of anything you bed them with. Other than that just use your pick of 4200/5200 etc... technically I guess you could use silicone etc... as long as the chain plate doesn't move. any movement and it is leak time.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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CAE
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October 31, 2014 - 5:29 pm
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Good point. I have not taken them out to look yet. To see If they are not worn oblong/rounded.
The chain plates are on the inside. I was thinking that I could rebed the through bolts with butyle. Not enough?

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Scott Carle
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October 31, 2014 - 9:39 pm
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I'm not sure.. Butyl depends on a never hardening layer of itself to seal, it also needs a little bit of thickness left to it between the items being bedded.. in a fairly unloaded situation such as stanchions, hand rails, or even pad eyes where the force is pulling up I would say yes (were dealing with hundreds of lbs of force. However the in a highly loaded situation such as the chain plates where that loading is in shear on the bolts and you have a "lot" of cyclic events lowering and raising the pull in the thousands of lbs, I would expect butyl to allow it to start working rather quickly.. Personally I think I would go 5200 myself as that would give an extra grip over and above the bolts to hopefully keep stuff from ever starting to move. Once it starts to move though the 5200 will probably start leaking even faster than the butyl. I think it would take much longer with the 5200 than the butyl for the theoretical movement to start happening.

 

Honestly I would do some research.

 

Looks like lots of people using both butyl and polysulfides.. I might look at a combination of them.. polysulfide maybe for the chain plate bolts through the hull and the butyl for where the chainplates go through the caprail.. I would be tempted to do one of the projects where you create a raised bed that the the chain plate comes out of so water runs off it easily and a large stainless or fiberglass plate the goes down over the chain plate and screws to the caprail with butyl between the two so it compresses and oozes out the edges and compresses into a slight depression where the edge is filed down right where the chainplate comes out of the cap rail.. Several of the below projects show something similar in intent..

 

research1

research2

research3

research4

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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CAE
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November 1, 2014 - 12:06 pm
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Thanks. I think I'll try the 5200 on the through boots. I've already done the cap rail sealing.

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Argyle38
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November 5, 2014 - 12:52 am
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I used butyl on both the chainplate bolts and the pass-through at the caprail. Used a generous amount of butyl in both places and just cut away the product that oozed out when tightening down the bolts. It's been dry for 3 years since I did the job with a moderate amount of sailing around Long Island Sound and one near shore ocean trip.

If you want to use 'goop' instead of butyl on the bolts, I would use 4000UV instead of 5200, but I'm one of those people that recommends to not use 5200 hardly anywhere. Way too much adhesive strength where it's not needed.

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