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Headliner replacement
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Erick
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October 22, 2009 - 8:57 am
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I am looking for inspiration and examples for replacing the vinyl/foam headliner on Windsong.  It is in pretty terrible shape and I plan to rip it all out when I begin the major refit.  Has anyone replaced the headliner before?  I am looking to get away from the vinyl/foam and maybe go with some solid panels.  My concern are the curved contours of the ceiling and particularly the sides around the portholes. 

Any examples or advice would be great.

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Scott Carle
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October 22, 2009 - 9:28 am
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Eric,

Someone left a comment on the fist post on the website about this. lets see…

yep here it is.

Keith Stark CANADA

Mac OS X
Safari 531.9
merlin33@telus.net

so glad to see a website again. They are such great boats. We have a downeaster 32. My wife and 2 small children are hoping to move aboard and go cruising in 2010. We have created panels for the inside of our boat that are removable. It makes it much easier to deal with leaks on deck or adding new hardware.

I am shooting him an email about your question.

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Dougm
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October 22, 2009 - 1:00 pm
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Erick,

If you want a good (great) example of what can be done with the headliner, take a look at the pictures of the interior of the Bodhran, at http://www.jasonrose.com/bodhran.html .  Having seen those pictures, not only do I want to do my headliner over, but now I want to build in the "U" shaped settee.

Maybe Jason can let us know about that project...

Doug

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Scott Carle
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November 14, 2009 - 2:20 pm
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Here are some posts from the old forum on this topic.

1. William Lewis
I am new to site. Owner of DE 32 sailing Maine coast. Took headliner out of boat and re-bedded virtually all thru deck fittings. Some of the bolts on the inside were glassed over. Am replacing headliner with cedar cut to 1/4″ thick. It is light weight and gives the interior the look of a wooden boat. Am rewiring at the same time and have created a "channel" down each side of the boat underneath the bolts for the handrails. This has a removable cover and will allow me to get to the bolts and the new wiring. Good idea to enlarge holes for thru-decks and fill with glass. The balsa in my decks had soaked up water and I ended up redoing part of the foredeck. Still have one small leak on the the starboard side that I can't find. Suspect the cap rail since I didn't replace the starboard one (I did the port rail at an awful expense for the teak). Would be glad to share additional info if you want.

2. unknown poster

It is perplexing as to why Downeasters have the nuts glassed over under the coach roof. I donned glasses and used a wood chisel and worked around the nut with it… You might also try a hole saw to get a cleaner line and chisel back to the line you scribe with the hole saw.
I would discourage you from putting the vinyl back since it will put you in the position of taking it all down again some day.. think of using vinyl soffitt material or panels made of plywood or cedar strips.
3. Capt Hook38
In response, a couple of thoughts.
Once the headliner is "peeled back" doubt that I would want to reuse it. I saved all the old headliner-as I tried to be careful taking it down-and will use it as a template for the new stuff. Am replacing both headliner and on the side decks as well. The headliner needs to be removable to check for leaks and re-bedding.
I had to remove the headliner to access the underside handrail bolts. No easy way. Took the plug out of the top-stabilized then removed. All will get new hardware and will fabricate new backing plates for handrails and fittings.
Decided to nix the teak along the topdeck/sidewall and will repair the holes (another reason why the core was soaking wet), fair the top deck, then consider trim paint or vinyl tape.
Am trying to get as much moisture out of the core as possible – I do not want to peel the deck-remove the bad balsa then refit. (Don Casey makes it sound so simple but then again he does it for a living !)
Will have oversize lexan for the windows .
ARGH MATEY'S-Good Luck with your projects !!
4. Roy
First Gerry we hope to be at Puerto del Rey soon after Nov 25 and if come by will show you the paneling job. To others forget trying to reuse the headliner it won't re-stretch to give a nice job. And where the steel staples were it is all rusted and rotten. When you have filled a pint jar with staples you are about done. First we used 1/2 inch plywood furring strips through out set in 5200. The carpenters who did the job said it was the only safe way as the hull would work at sea and 5200 stays just flexible enough to absorb it. Around the big and small windows they made cutouts to glue around the opening. We used Brazilian 3/16 plywood similar to Luan but not as dark. All panels are small enough to handle at sea. panels are lightly fastened to furring strips with #4 flat head self tapping screws. Joints are covered with 1/4 x 1 inch cypress with rounded edges. Trim strips are installed with #4 x 3/4 inch oval head screws. No trim screws are hidden to ease panel removal . All panels are epoxy sealed on back and edges. All overhead panels are finished with single part white enamel. All vertical panels are finished with clear matte Epithane. All overhead and longitudinal trim strips are stained with Glidden burled cherry stain and finished with Epithane. Burled Cherry matches the DownEast wood work. The panels at the stove were laminated with Formica. The trim around the big windows was cut from the same plywood and stained to match. The gap to the big windows was filled with West fairing compound and Lacquered Brown to match wood work.

Are you ready for this? Carol counted the panels and trim strips, hold your breath! 257 pieces. If you own a 32 when we get back to the boat if I can find Carol's index drawing you will see how the panels fit. A couple of hints, the change in cabin elevation had the furring strips extended so the change is vertical and in the forward cabin the harsh angular shape is now one soft curve. For those who want to find the teak in Trinidad it runs from $2.65 to $4.00 a board foot depending on color and dryness. I have heard there are teak plantations in Costa Rico so you west coasters may find a good source there. Right now on the east coast if you know somebody you can get teak for $14.00 a board foot. See you in Trinidad. We had the work done by Fortress Wood Workng at Power Boats in 1995 for less than $3,000 and Sterling and Rashied taught me a lot about being a good carpenter, Took them 6 weeks and we pulled the staples. Roy

5. Bud Rudder
As a new owner (DE32 #89 Ocean Dancer), I am already considering how to tackle a sagging/drooping headliner. These comments are invaluable in moving to a decision. One other possible source may be found in the June 2000 issue of Cruising World (page 57). In the article describing the preparations made to ITHAKA for leaving on an extended cruise, Bernadette Bernon has a photo and brief mention of a headliner made from thin marine plywood and secured with heavy-duty velcro. This renders the headliner easily removable and answers many issues regarding fitting. Have any of you tried this? I am leaning toward this solution for ease of maintenance.
Cheers,
Bud Rudder
6.
Re: Overhead

From: Bill
Date: 17 Jan 2000

I never liked the vinyl headliner. I does not allow access and any moisture that makes it’s way in is going to mildew When I decided it was time to re-bed all the deck hardware it was necessary to remove and in it’s place made ply panels much like Jim’s description. It is difficult to get an exact fit between the beams. I taken vinyl soffit material that looks that looks like 3″ tongue and groove? and screwed between beams. It looks better, is easy to clean, and easy to access. I wanted to use wood at first but this is a better compromise. The only problem that I have experienced is that it must not be screwed down tight as it does expand and contract with temmperature and will buckle if too tight. I would be glad to provide pictures if anyone is interested in trying it.

7.
Re: Overhead

From: Greg Smith
Date: 29 Sep 1999

Been there – done that – - First remove the vinyl “Hidem” strip – you can either just rip it off and buy new (listed in BoatUS catalog) or open it and pull the staples out with screwdriver & pliers (YUKK!) You must then pull the staples that hold the vinyl headliner. Do NOT be tempted to just rip out the headliner unless you want to buy new. Underneath is a softwood tack strip that should be in pretty good shape unless it has gotten wet and rotted. Replacement is simply tacking the vinyl back with an Arrow staple gun – be sure to use monel staples. The Hidem is replaced in a similar manner. For spots that the staple gun won’t reach I just used carpet tacks – stuck them by hand and then hammered them with a long steel rod. By the way – if you are rebedding deck hardware and want to keep water out of the cored deck, take a 3/4 inch hole saw and cut a plug out around each hole down to the bottom layer of glass – then fill with marine tex, sand flush and drill a new hole. After this procedure, leaks are less likely, as the marine tex won’t compress and – if leaks occur, the will show up at their source. Good luck……………….GES

8.
Re: Overhead

From: Jim Comeaux <gsgwyb@online.nsk.su
Date: 16 Nov 1999

I did mine and I can tell you that if you take out part of it, you might as well take it all out! I had taking out all of it in mind when I started, but even if I had not planned it that way, it would have worked out that way. I put mine back in (please see my respone to “raindrops keep falling on my head”)in removable panels by mounting the headliner on 1/8″ plywood and screwing it into the overhead. I love it! I can chase wires and leaks all that I want now.

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Scott Carle
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May 29, 2010 - 9:07 pm
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Someone else brought this topic up so I am bumping it back up to the top of the list

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Scott Carle
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May 31, 2010 - 12:09 am
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Duane of the DE32 s/vGracie Emmett was kind enough to send a brief write up and some pictures of the what they did for a headliner replacement. It is now part of the permanent archive of DE projects here on the site..

http://downeasteryachts.com/in.....mmett-de32

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Scott Carle
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June 7, 2010 - 11:34 am
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I pulled the headliner down in the Head on the the boat  yesterday. It was a bit surprising. There was a thin layer of foam on the section of vinyl on the side of the cabin around the port light. However there was no foam at all behind the vinyl on the ceiling. It was just straight vinyl. The staples are a pain in the you know what to get out. I used a razor to cut the vinyl down and then went back and used vise grips to pull the plastic trim stuff and little rim of vinyl that was left down. There are staples every 1/4 inch around the entire perimeter and they are a pain to get out.. first get it up a little with a screwdriver and then pull with the vise grips. I think I will put some insulation back in and then some kind of panel system that allows me access to the hardware in the coach roof when I need it. For the immediate future we are just going to scrub the roof and paint it white.

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Jonathan Oasis
S/V OASIS
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December 11, 2012 - 2:09 am
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Pics from Oasis DE32 headliner removal.   "What's behind your headliner?"  Maybe ya don't want to know...  (the grey/black areas are dried mold)

 

HeadlinerImage Enlarger

 

HeadlinerImage Enlarger

 

HeadlinerImage Enlarger

 

Rotted furring stripsImage Enlarger

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Scott Carle
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December 12, 2012 - 9:03 am
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So far in the areas we have pulled down or gotten behind the head liner it has been pretty clean as no mildew or mold. The head compartment we pulled it all down and there was a little behind there but not much. As we pull it down we are going to clean, lightly sand and paint all of the ceiling with a anti sweating microsphere paint. Still need to order some though. 🙂 might add in an anti-mildew additive at the same time.

 

So I was looking at your pictures and all of a sudden wen't " thats not a DE38 as there is nowhere on the boat that looks like that" lol.. then I realized its a DE32 🙂 

For a minute I was wondering if you were pulling a fast on on us 🙂

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Sea Trader
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December 26, 2012 - 11:36 am
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Hello & Happy New Year:

 

s/v Sea Trader (aka Allen Turk, a "Newby" to this forum) is a 1975 DE 38 Cutter. We acquired her late August 2012 following a few years of neglect. Her new bottom  job, wax job and general cleaning has brought her cosmetic appeal back to a respectable standard. New running rigging, water heater, 5 new batteries and a few 100 of hours of labor have rendered seaworthy and reliable. A few topics in which I need advice or help are:

1.Next week, I begin refinishing her top side bright work with a heat gun, stain and multiple coats of varnish. ANY TIPS & SUGGESTIONS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED on best practices for refinishing her exterior teak.

2. Have read the headliner replacement blogs with great interest. Planning on a variation of the ceiling job done by http://www.jasonrose.com using white pre-finished beadboard @ $20 / sheet of .188" thk. x 4x8 or textured white Glasteel FRP @ $33.67 / sheet of .091" Thk. x 4' x 8' (ex-HomeDepot) for the arched ceiling. What is the best insulation material to use behind these panels? What is the best exterior material for the side walls? Assuming minimal cleaning of mold, mildew & old adhesives, what may be the approximated labor hours for removal & installation for our DE38?

3.We have read the blog about difficulties using a 110 Genoa with the Staysail. We have a 150 Genoa that I can only imagine will be impossible to tack while the Staysail is up. Isn't this an either one or the other solution? How would you reasonably tack while sailing  them both? We are also looking for any reference source or experienced instruction on how to fly our drifter/reacher without a whisker pole?

 

Hope I have not breached the protocol by posting 3 separate topics? Any help, suggestions or guidance will be greatly appreciated.

 

Happy New Year with fair winds and flat seas![Image Can Not Be Found]

 

Allen

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Scott Carle
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December 28, 2012 - 9:18 pm
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Sea Trader said:

3.We have read the blog about difficulties using a 110 Genoa with the Staysail. We have a 150 Genoa that I can only imagine will be impossible to tack while the Staysail is up. Isn't this an either one or the other solution? How would you reasonably tack while sailing  them both? We are also looking for any reference source or experienced instruction on how to fly our drifter/reacher without a whisker pole?

 

Hope I have not breached the protocol by posting 3 separate topics? Any help, suggestions or guidance will be greatly appreciated.

 

Happy New Year with fair winds and flat seas![Image Can Not Be Found]

 

Allen

 

Allen, 

welcome to the forums and website. In general your good but there are several categories that your questions cover that would work better in their own forum categories. I have posted a link to a question of staysail/jib interactions someone else asked. Maybe post your question over there and lets see if we can start a conversation there. 🙂 I actually have a little experience with this on the DE38 and will post over there on it. 🙂

/forums/sails-and-rigging-standing-and-running/genoastaysail-interaction

 

as to refinishing the teak 🙂 lol that is a much debated subject. I found a product I love but the creator of it died and his company disappeared.. I am now trying to create my own mixture of tung oil, varnish and some variety of thinner/dryer to replicate its properties. No progress yet. 🙂  other than that you have your choice of traditional varnishes, some sort of teak oil, two part finishes such as Bristol, Cetol, or a lot of variations in between these.  I'm not going to jump into it in detail until I have created my own formula  and then I will post it. Simple search of refinishing teak or bright work on boats on google will give you more reading that you have time to finish on a bunch of the boat building and cruising forums.

 

Scott

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bearfootbandit
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December 29, 2012 - 11:44 am
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Hey, its been awhile since I've been on here! I was just reading to see what others were doing with that disastrous headliner. I actually read an article in a sailing magazine with another guy who had the same problem with his 80's retro vinyl, and he went to home depot and got that wood flooring material- the one that snaps together- and used it on the walls going up. It looked really fantastic! Then he just popcorn textured the rest of the fiberglass, and painted it with a cream colored paint. I don't like popcorn texture, but it looked really nice. We're planning on going home where we have a Ohia log drilling business, so we're going to replace the headliner with Ohia wood paneling. The ceiling we're going to do white wainscoting, and we're going to drop the beams down another inch and panel them in mahogany, so they look solid. I catch dad looking at the headliner sometimes, and I think he's daydreaming about the day we can rip it out. 🙂 Happy new years everyone!

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Scott Carle
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December 29, 2012 - 9:08 pm
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I did the last boat I had where we pulled down the marine fabric/carpet down off the bulkheads and hull and sanded and painted. It looks great. However I wouldn't do it as a finished surface for one of these boats. Not enough insulation and to much condensation. 🙂 We are living on the boat right now and in the moderate 40 to 70 degree temps we have been living in I can already see issues in the head where we pulled the headliner down all the way as well as spots where we have pulled corners back on the existing headliner and ambient air can touch the exposed deck and fittings. Lots of condensation. I plan on painting with a anti-condensation paint when we redo stuff to help with that but for the most part there will be a tight layer of reflectix insulation installed above the system we go with as 

 

I have a plan in my head for our headliner and overheads.. It will have drop down storage between the beams over the settees and flush with those hard panels the rest of the space. I'm uncertain if I'm going to use luan nicely stained and varnished for the panels or use a white melamine type material. The panels would be almost flush with the teak trim strips, just slightly higher. This should give an inch and a half or more of storage for things like spice bottles in the galley, and misc other stuff other areas in the salon.  I would like to use 1/4 inch cream neoprene for all the curved surfaces. It would be attached with Velcro to be easily removable and would be fuzzy side out so that you could stick custom built pockets with Velcro to it. The end result would allow us to put a little insulation up there, give us quick access to 100 percent of the underside of the decks when needed and take us from old dingy vinyl to a slightly refreshed/upgraded look. 🙂 I hope. 

It will help with running all the new wiring for projects I have planned also. Speaker wires, hdmi cables, more power wires for led reading lights in the vberth and salon, power wires from the solar panels on deck to down below, gps and satalite radio antenna wires run back down below from the top of the new hard dodger, as well as power wires running up to the dodger for accessory power up there and led lights under it.

 

It will probably be done a section at a time over time as functionally needed. Right now there are 3 sections that will need to be done soon as we have damaged the vinyl gaining access to deck hardware to work on it for on deck projects and repairs.

 

Isn't it amazing how many things the headliner affects. 🙂

Scott

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Jonathan Oasis
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January 13, 2013 - 6:33 pm
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As far as insulation and headliner goes I believe the best insulation would be to use 3/4" or 1" armaflex, which is a closed-cell foam (water proof) with adhesive backing.  For best look, use tongue-and-grove strips to make wood panels in sections.  Then assemble as a headlining by sticking the armaflex to the backside of the panels and fasten the panels to the fiberglass with screws.   The thickness of this should press the insulation against the fiberglass slightly to eliminate air circulation.  I haven't priced armaflex yet.  It will be down to 35 deg at night so adding insulation with the new headliner goes hand in hand (alternatively, 100 deg of sunshine on deck in tropics in summer).

 

Given the interior space (height) of the DE's, there is definitely room for overhead storage.  I think under-floor storage is a more interesting idea though, easier to access, keeps weight low, less to burn up above if a flame hits anything.

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Scott Carle
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January 14, 2013 - 10:36 am
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I was thinking of just putting some reflectix as insulation in. It's pretty thin 1/4 inch or so and seems to do really well. I used it to create ducting for the on deck window unit AC we used last summer on the boat living here. There was no condensation on the outside even though it ran most of the day. I figure that is pretty good considering it had cold air blasting on the inside of it all day long.

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Jonathan Oasis
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March 24, 2013 - 11:28 pm
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I've had the headliner removed in my vberth for a few months now and also removed from about half the main cabin, as my improvement project is slow, so I can definitely confirm that the existing headliner does add a good amount of insulation so to speak.  Or basically, draft abatement.  The main cabin is definitely much colder (breezier) and the vberth is basically a refrigerator.  Without the old headliner to block the draft, the cold air seeps in from all angles.  The old headliner did an ok job of blocking the cold air from flowing into the cabin.

I have found though, that a couple of the deck hardware bolts (along hatch cover's track) are dripping slowly in really hard rains (1 drop per minute). The old headliner really hid this problem from view.  So I'm glad I took it down regardless. 

It's also a good time to replace some of the cabin lamps because the headliner is "behind" all the interior work, i.e. the lamp bases must be removed in order to get the headliner out.  Picked up more LED's for this.  I'll wire small computer fans into the cabin lamp circuits at the same time, which saves on extra wire runs.

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Scott Carle
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March 25, 2013 - 9:52 am
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We just pulled down the headliner over the chart table and galley as well as the vertical area in both those areas on the aft cabin face. I am putting solid wood panels on the back cabin face with spice and tea shelves on them. The over head will have hinged panels that drop down a foot or two and when up are flush with the cabin bows. This leaves them acting as little storage bins that drop down. Lights and fans will be attached to them. I am using a pretty 5 mm luan to make the panels with. I will treat it with penetrating epoxy and then varnish it. I will try to keep it as light as possible in color.

 

its in the 50's here temp wise and I can tell a difference in the aft of the boat without the headliner in. Definite difference.

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Jonathan Oasis
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May 27, 2013 - 1:42 am
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If you add overhead storage esp. drop-down, hope it has good locking mechanisms.  Otherwise random objects raining down from the ceiling during a bad beating would be unfortunate.

The headliner really wraps behind everything.  It seems even the windows were put on after the headliner.  So I have little edge bits of headliner around every window pane, where I cut away at the vinyl to get it down.

Another layer I will include will be mylar.  It will have some insulation properties and rumor says it will act as a great radar reflector.

I'm not sure if I will put wood paneling up on the cabin's interior sides.  The armaflex has an OK surface on its own.  It's possible to adhere it and bend it around some curves or create beveled pieces which hide the seams once joined.

One interesting idea is to design for leaks.  Why not have drip trays under the ports and deck hardware, etc, then run a small water tube down from these trays where the water can be caught, rather than drip or collect in random low spots. 

One thing for sure is that a shoe rack is getting installed up above a settee.  Shoes are light, yet bulky, and need to be accessible closer to the companionway.  Probably cloth pouches will do.

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Scott Carle
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May 27, 2013 - 7:26 am
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So we got the panelling with shelves up in the rear of the boat. I did a write up and posted it to the front page. Here is the direct link

/archives/2990

 

Image Enlarger

 

I was pretty happy with the end result and now after a couple weeks using them I and my wife are very very happy.

 

We put up reflectix behind the panels for insulation so basically a combination of the mylar and bubble wrap. Seems to be working well.

 

The desgin of the overhead bins is still wandering around in my head. Like you said a positive latch system seems to be very key to retaining whatever you put up there. The only ideas I have had so far is to have barrel bolts on either side of the drop down portion of the bin or a small line that runs up to an eye in the roof directly above the opening end of the bin and then from there over to a small cleat that you can tie it off on.  Maybe a strip of foam seal above the opening end that as you close the bin it will compress against in the shut position so that the bin will not rattle.

As to the sidewalls, I am going to leave the current headliner in place for a while. It is working well. When we do change it out I will either just use the same thing or maybe some neoprene in a cream/off white color. Neoprene with a fuzzy side out would give us the ability to build fabric/canvas pockets with Velcro on the back of them that could be stuck to the fuzzy side of the neoprene. We wouldn't be redoing any of the headliner on the boat to be honest if I didn't both now and in the past year need to access deck hardware under it and also want to create overhead storage. It is dingy from age but other than that in immaculate shape. They did an increadable job on it when it was installed.

 

right now one of our major irritations in life living on the boat is managing shoes for three people.  I think that in the near future we are going to sew up or buy and adapt some fabric hanging shoe racks and put them in the little corner beside the companionway and behind the chart table to port of the opening for the pilot berth. I think we could build in enough storage for at least 6 or 7 adult size pairs of shoes there. Other than that I had the idea of building a box to attach to the back side of the companionway that you access through large slots or holes in the back of the companionway under the steps. Maybe 6 inch deep or so. just enough room for a few shoes stuffed back up into there. I need to mock up a cardboard model and tape it in place to see if it will affect access to the engine compartment with the companionway opened up or impinge on closing the companionway.

 

Living on the boat for the last year has really highlighted a lot of storage deficiencies. There is a lot of storage space on this boat but it is extremely hard to use it effectively for real world daily living. Most of of it is just big bins and compartments that stuff just jumbles in. Gradually we have been creating custom solutions to specific storage needs. We still have along way to go and I'm sure that once we start travelling that new ideas or needs will come up as we deal with living in a heeling/bouncing environment. We are trying to plan for that in everything we do now but planing for and living it are probably two different things.

Scott

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CAE
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July 27, 2013 - 5:14 pm
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I have ripped down some headliner and the glass is fine underneath. I'm no fan of having much fabric in a boat and I am thinking of lightly sanding the existing matt glass and then putting fairing compound on it, sanding it down and painting it. Just like any fiber glass repair. Has anyone done this before? 

Thanks

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July 27, 2013 - 6:20 pm
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On my last boat we sanded the cabin sides in the salon and went and got some decent gloss porch and floor paint custom tinted at home depot or lowes and painted instead of putting the headliner back up. We didn't sand it smooth. Just took the old glue off and smoothed out the rough edges. Two coats of the thick paint and it gave it a nice texture and the gloss was easy to clean. On the DE the transition from the bows to the deck is pretty rough and I don't think your going to smooth that transition without a lot of filling and fairing. So my end call would be that it will look nice but a bit industrial painted with out a a lot of work. Painting it might be a very nice transition stage to give you a nice usable interior that doesn't look to bad once the headliner is down until you can put something more polished in place. Now that I think of it I might do that here also.

One downside to just painting is that you will notice a difference in heating and cooling the boat without the headliner there creating a dead airspace. The decks should be foam core which helps a lot on these boats but even so the dead air space of the headliner is as much more of an insulative measure also. We will be gluing or taping reflectix insulation to the undersides over the bins we plan on building.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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July 28, 2013 - 2:04 am
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[Image Can Not Be Found]I did this test patch and it looks ok. Took me about 10  minutes to prep, mix , apply and then sand down. So doing the whole thing may not be too daunting.Image Enlarger

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Scott Carle
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July 28, 2013 - 10:17 am
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yep that doesn't look bad.:)

In the end its all about what makes you happy. If the picture in your head says this is the way you want it then go for it. It might be more work than I would put into it but your the one that has to live with it. I have a lot of things that it is all about get it functional as quick a possible and other stuff that I wanted it "just so!" and spent a lot of time and resources doing it my way. I get a lot of wow that’s nice on those projects but not many people that would spend the time or effort to do it like I did. Some of my just get her done projects people go "you should have done more there.  In the end the only place you have to be uncompromising is projects that affect structural safety. Rigging,repairs to the hull,thru hulls,etc…

 

The secret to a boat is to keep water on the outside,people on the inside and have fun,all else is subject to the whim of the owner:)

 

here is a picture of what my last boat looked like when I painted instead of putting the headliner back up over the shelves in the salon.

 

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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July 28, 2013 - 10:53 am
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That looks good to me. I will probably run wood on the ceiling some time in the future, but for now I'll leave the headliner in place because it's in ok condition.

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Scott Carle
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July 28, 2013 - 12:15 pm
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hmm.. i thought I left a long post about my drawer on the ceiling plans but it seems to have disappeared.. sigh.. oh well.. maybe another day 🙂

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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diverchick71
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July 31, 2013 - 12:04 pm
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I was finally able to be out at the boat yesterday. Looks like we splash her and will take her from Vallejo on Aug 13. Yay! The headliner on Mongojo is just horrid. It kills the whole interior energy so for me, it's kne of the first things we pull out. Need to get to the bad deck I've the v-Berth soon anyway. I like the little test patch you did. Maybe I'll give that a try.

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diverchick71
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July 31, 2013 - 4:57 pm
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How is the marina going to be about letting you do work on the water?

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Scott Carle
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July 31, 2013 - 5:04 pm
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Around here they don't give you much hassle.. I wouldn't recommend pulling out a paint spray gun though 🙂 If there was a rule I couldn't work on the boat I wouldn't stay there. Seems about an impossible rule though as every sail and power boat everywhere always needs work done on it 🙂

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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August 1, 2013 - 10:42 am
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As a 35 year resident of the marina told me,"Get a berth as far away from the harbor Masters office as you can.'

Good advice.

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Scott Carle
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August 1, 2013 - 10:52 am
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Ha!!!! lol... I ended up in the slip beside one of the dockmasters boat. Can't get much worse than that.

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