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Perhaps this has been a string in the past but I want to add some midship hawse holes and cleats for spring lines. Has anyone found these bronze (?) units anywhere?
How about additional cleats at the bow? Is anyone else bothered when there's two bow lines and two spring lines all wrapped on top of each other on the capstan? I'd like to put a couple more cleats up there but don't want to be breaking my toes either. Suggestions?
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yep we all have that on our want to do list. I actually have some 12 inch hershoff style bronze cleats, just like my stock ones, to install for a midships cleat.. Hawse pipe amidships would be awesome but would take a major glass reconstruction project to make sure you got your tube through and that it was water proof to the interior. I think that you would need to build it out of glass and then use a bronze fitting to go inside the glass in tube. That area would be subject to lots of standing water on the low side of the boat in any seas.. a hawse pipe there would allow lots of extra drainage over what we have now.. however if it wasn't sealed right it would allow a massive amount of water into the boat under some conditions.
as to extra cleats at the bow.. again something I have thought of but would put the midship cleats for single-hand docking much higher on the list. To be honest I haven't found the samson posts with bow and spring lines on them to be to bad of a hassle.
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I found a source for bronze hawsepipes similar but not exactly the same as ours. Buck Algonquin makes hawsepipes with the same height and width but round ends where ours are more square ish. Their stock depth is 1 1/2" but I've requested pricing and availability on units with 3" depth. If it's a special run, I'll let everyone know in case anyone else want's a couple. Turns out a guy in my office knows the president of the company after buying lots of hardware from him over the years and is asking for me.
I thought to just install a couple cleats on top of the caprail more or less amidships but decided they weren't there for a reason and I didn't want to break a toe on one at any point in the future.
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Sailboatstuff.com has 3" hawse pipes. They're pretty spendy, but a special run from Buck Algonquin might be more. I used to have one these with a built in cleat installed amidship on Bodhran. Unfortunately I took it off thinking that it was leaking. Turns out, the hull to deck fitting was leaking instead. They're tricky to install. You have to cut them to just the right hull thickness, but they're available.
Jason Rose
DE32 Bodhran
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You're right, Sailboatstuff did have them but they were pretty small and $189 each, I believe.
I've found a marine hardware guy in Maine who "will make pretty much anything" and is making me a couple hawse pipes to match the ones I have for $90 each. His name is Ron and he seems like the kind of guy who's actually having fun doing what he's doing.
He's going to make a plug for the casting with his CNC machine and will "keep it on file" so if anyone wants some spare hawse pipes or, as I'm doing, midship spring line hawse holes, he's making mine now and expects to ship in a month. It's better than I could have hoped for and cheaper than anything I've found, which isn't much. I asked that he make the inside part slightly larger than the 3" so I can trim them to fit the specific spot I'm installing them which will be somewhere forward or aft of the midship life line gate.
I'm finding that my long list of must dos that have to get done before our spring trip require me to be sourcing, buying and planning at least 5 projects at once so my weekends are very productive with almost no trips to the hardware store. That means the boat looks like a hardware store, filled with tools and parts, but at least it's moving well.
I've reinstalled the "revised" main, mizzen and 130 genny with new sailcovers and will be moving the staysail stay forward to make the staysail more of a stand alone working sail than a boost to the oversized genny.
New portlites for over the galley are coming and I got all new LED lights since I'm running new wires prior to replacing the headliner.
Rick
SV Orion
sales@rethomasmarinehardware.com
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We really like our LED lights on the boat. I replaced 9 stock fixture bulbs with LED bulbs that are brighter than the originals and all 9 burn about what 1 bulb did before if that. I then added about 5 other leds. also running lights are LED now... It is a major power savings and does significant things to how much power you need and battery bank size. The LEDS allow the refrigeration to run an extra couple hours a day if needed on the same battery capacity.
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Actually a bit off topic..but we just replaced all the bulbs in our house with LED's. They use half the power of the compact florescent bulbs we were using, don't have the mercury in them, and give at least 50% more light than the ones we replaced. I live and die on light so something I can leave on a lot but that saves money is great. Wall mart has a house brand 120v 40 watt replacement LED bulb for 5 dollars that is great. I swear it feels like it gives off more like 60+ watts of light. We have a fixture in the living room that holds 4 bulbs and with 4 of the 40watt ones in it, it is almost to bright.. Just on the edge of uncomfortably bright.. I think it said they use 6 or 7 watts of power?
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I found a place in New England that made me 6 new hawse pipes, apparently to match my current ones that are going to get rebedded. I only wanted 2 for spring lines amidships so if any one wants some; 2 or 4, I'm selling them for $145.00 each.
I haven't seen them yet, he's shipping them out this week, but he made a custom plug on his CNC machine and cast them in bronze with the pipe part a little longer then the 2 1/2" I specified so they can be cut exactly to fit the spot they're being installed.
I'll post pictures if I can figure out how.
R
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Sigh I would buy some for sure if we had the extra money sitting around. I have wanted to put in midship hawse pipes forever. I have some 12 inch bronze hershoff cleats I purchased a few years ago when I had some extra money that I am going to install on the cap rail instead I think. I think being able to run midship dock lines is one of the most valuable short handed or single handing docking aids there is. I really like the idea of midship hawse pipes also for the extra drainage when you get waves over the bow. Our deck drains and cockpt drains are not that large. The do good even up to a very hard rain but green water coming over the bow will overwhelm them. Nice thing is that the height of the cap rail is lowest at midships so that when healed over a lot of water will spill over the top of it if your taking decent sized waves over the bow.
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I've been assured by the first mate that we won't be taking green water over the bow nor will we be surfing down any 15' waves in the near future.
Still it's not a bad idea to set them close to the deck to double as drainage..
I'm afraid that all the hawse pipes are screwed into fiberglass with nothing between the two sides of the coaming which means when the boat is surging against a dockline led through one of the hawse pipes, all the weight is being taken by the sides of the coaming.
We'll see when the comes out of the water in a couple days. One of the covers was falling off so we'll take them off and see. If it's true, I'll pack the inside with something and epoxy and give the things some beef.
Even though we're not going to be seeing any big weather anytime soon.....
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Don't count on that not taking water over the bow. It happens 
it's not really scary but it is a bit uncomfortable with waves washing down the side decks and into the cockpit. The foot well there will fill up and then drain out slowly.
I would access the the hawse pipe after you install it from the inside of the boat if you can and wrap it in fiberglass and epoxy with it going out 6 to 8 inches on the inner face of the hull and the inner face of the bulwark. build it up a 1/4 inch thick. This leaves you with a waterproof tube that the hawsepipe goes through and will also significantly beef up the structure there. Maybe oil or wax the hawse pipe itself before wrapping it in the glass and epoxy so that you can maybe pull it out if needed at a later date. Doing it this way you can get the hawse pipe down near the deck as a drain and not worry about the lack of a decent lower lip to bolt through.
not sure if my description makes sense. I can see it in my head but am not sure that my descriptive powers are up to translating it into words today. I was running a 4 degree fever last night and still fill under the weather today...
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I figured I'd cut the hole then make a top and bottom "plug" out of left over core (have to replace some deck under the mast) or marine ply with thickened epoxy. the plug would have the shape of the hawse pipe and be covered in thickened epoxy so when I jam in in there and clean it up the hawse pipe will fit in and have something really solid to clamp to plus it would be very difficult for water to get through something like that and a dockline that was taking the strain of slowing the boat would have lots of structure to work with.
Like everything, I'm going to start with one concept and be surprised at how well something completely different worked out. I think that's why people post their projects online: they're surprised that things turned out ok. Isn't it half the fun of boatbuilding? Take out all the tools and supplies and see what happens.
R
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Rick, I had to undertake "open step surgery" last winter, after I found about 1/8" of water pooling at the base of the mast on the starboard side. Inspection revealed that the cabin top had become depressed just a little, which I surmised was due to the offset support/compression post beneath the step in the cabin. I took a ton of pictures, and had planned on submitting a write-up, but never got around to it. Your comment about replacing some deck under the mast has given me inspiration, so I'll dig up the pictures and see what I can put together. Stay tuned... it will probably be a few days. I'll have to draft the report between shoveling out! (I live just north of Boston)
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DougM:
Please post some pictures. I'm pretty sure what I'll find; the discolored area under the mast is about 3'x 3" and it's black. I've put a straightedge on the deck above and that area is flat and the floor below the post is actually humped up right at the mast which appears to mean that someone tried jacking that part up. I found a section of 8" PVC under the mast which I'm guessing replaced whatever was there before and allowed the mast to drop. I'm also assuming that the core is mush. The two doors going into the head show about 1/2" settling on both frames and the top of the doors have been cut at an angle to accommodate that drop.
I believe I'll be able to cut out the deck section. scrape out what's left of the core, replace and epoxy the core and reglass the deck back with lots of fairing. I'm hoping that if I have all the materials I'll be able to accomplish all that in a day or two as opening the deck is something I've dreaded for years on different boats and I don't want to get stuck with the thing open. I'm going to use something called "space age" which is supposed to be the resin version of plywood according to my supplier and should have all the compressive strength I need.
I thought a lot of thickened West System epoxy under and over the plug and lots of matting on top. If you found a better system, please let me know.
Thanks
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Rick, could you show pics of the Hawse holes. I might be interested in two of them. Thanks, Travis
Travis and Kim
S/V WundorStar
DE 38 Ketch
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Travis:
They're the same size as my hawse pipes except that everything is thicker. The guy who made these for me must do it as a hobby because he had to use a CNC machine to make a mold form and cast the stuff.
The surface will require some sanding or filing or polishing unless the surface that comes from the mold is smooth enough for you. It's like a sand finish. I used my regular random orbit sander which made it smooth enough but given the condition ("patina") of my existing units, I don't think I'm going to spend a lot of time polishing as I'm not going to continue polishing them. Ever.
I asked him to make the part that goes through the coaming a little longer so I can trim them to fit perfectly as I'm guessing that each area has slight differences. I believe that will be easy with a hacksaw and belt sander.
I looked and looked for these but there are none this size on the new or used market and the price was always substantial. I'm hoping to leave for a couple years and would hate to have these languish in my garage when they should be out adventuring on someone's boat. I only needed 2 but he made me 6 because I guess that's what foundries do.
If you want them, send me money and I'll Fed Ex them to you.
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Rick, great I changed my mind, and would like all 4 of them. 2 midships, and 2 aft. Not sure if you can personal message me or not. I will try and PM you with my phone number, and we can figure it all out. Thanks Travis.
Travis and Kim
S/V WundorStar
DE 38 Ketch
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Rick, if your fabrication guy likes doing this, anyway that he could make these with the built in cleats like we've talked about? I've found the ones for $189 and they are just too small. I have existing hawse holes there but would like the cleats.
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I add 2 of these made some while back.
i don't think I will be installing due to other maintenance matters taking priority.
these would be great for replacement of existing or to install midship.
these are top of the line, cast in US, are heavy duty, have cleats, are machined so that the thru bolts screw into the other side holding them together.
$250 each plus $25 shipping each as they are heavy.
I will take some pics .
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Hmmm,..I'm wondering how I can post the pics from my IPhone to here? Thanks
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Capthunter said
Hmmm,..I'm wondering how I can post the pics from my IPhone to here? Thanks
I'm not aware of any special IPHONE compatibility. If you can use the standard interface with the I phone I think you could upload with it but it isn't something I have ever tested.
scott
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Those are nice 
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Hello People!
Not thinking about midship hawse pipes (although agree those would be nice) but have to replace an open 8" chock which popped off during a particularly windy night and sank in the slip! Then, last week, another windy day and the s'bord aft 6" cleat popped off while I watched. That time the line was firmly attached so the cleat was saved, but it is severely bent. Obviously I have to get better fastenings than the 1" wood screws that were holding the chock and cleat to the cap rail, but what should I do to replace these items? Could the cleat be straightened without being severely weakened? I could get the exact same size (6" cleat, 8" chock) and material (bronze) but thinking about adding another cleat in place of the chock and maybe going for s.s. instead of bronze (expensive). I see brass items advertised, but isn't brass too soft for cleats? I guess I'll go for bronze but just would like the advice of the experts (you!)
Thanks in advance
Bob
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um bronze or stainless is the only thing I would use. Bronze matches whats already there and you can find used ones on ebay often for cheap.
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I'd definitely go with bronze: I believe our cleats are known as "Herreshoff" cleats and everything needs to be through bolted although you'll have to get an octopus to get a wrench on that nut, under the caprail, on your back.
It's possible but well worth the effort, as you can attest first hand...
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