It's possible but well worth the effort, as you can attest first hand...

Not thinking about midship hawse pipes (although agree those would be nice) but have to replace an open 8" chock which popped off during a particularly windy night and sank in the slip!  Then, last week, another windy day and the s'bord aft 6" cleat popped off while I watched.  That time the line was firmly attached so the cleat was saved, but it is severely bent.   Obviously I have to get better fastenings than the 1" wood screws that were holding the chock and cleat to the cap rail, but what should I do to replace these items?  Could the cleat be straightened without being severely weakened? I could get the exact same size (6" cleat, 8" chock)  and material (bronze) but thinking about adding another cleat in place of the chock and maybe going for s.s. instead of bronze (expensive).  I see brass items advertised, but isn't brass too soft for cleats?  I guess I'll go for bronze but just would like the advice of the experts (you!) 

Thanks in advance

Bob

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Commercial Grade

Capthunter said
Hmmm,..I'm wondering how I can post the pics from my IPhone to here? Thanks

I'm not aware of any special IPHONE compatibility. If you can use the standard interface with the I phone I think you could upload with it but it isn't something I have ever tested.

scott

i don't think I will be installing due to other maintenance matters taking priority.

these would be great for replacement of existing or to install midship.

these are top of the line, cast in US, are heavy duty, have cleats, are machined so that the thru bolts screw into the other side holding them together.

$250 each plus $25 shipping each as they are heavy.

I will take some pics .

They're the same size as my hawse pipes except that everything is thicker. The guy who made these for me must do it as a hobby because he had to use a CNC machine to make a mold form and cast the stuff.

The surface will require some sanding or filing or polishing unless the surface that comes from the mold is smooth enough for you. It's like a sand finish. I used my regular random orbit sander which made it smooth enough but given the condition ("patina") of my existing units, I don't think I'm going to spend a lot of time polishing as I'm not going to continue polishing them. Ever.

I asked him to make the part that goes through the coaming a little longer so I can trim them to fit perfectly as I'm guessing that each area has slight differences. I believe that will be easy with a hacksaw and belt sander.

I looked and looked for these but there are none this size on the new or used market and the price was always substantial. I'm hoping to leave for a couple years and would hate to have these languish in my garage when they should be out adventuring on someone's boat. I only needed 2 but he made me 6 because I guess that's what foundries do. 

If you want them, send me money and I'll Fed Ex them to you.

Please post some pictures. I'm pretty sure what I'll find; the discolored area under the mast is about 3'x 3" and it's black. I've put a straightedge on the deck above and that area is flat and the floor below the post is actually humped up right at the mast which appears to mean that someone tried jacking that part up. I found a section of 8" PVC under the mast which I'm guessing replaced whatever was there before and allowed the mast to drop. I'm also assuming that the core is mush. The two doors going into the head show about 1/2" settling on both frames and the top of the doors have been cut at an angle to accommodate that drop. 

I believe I'll be able to cut out the deck section. scrape out what's left of the core, replace and epoxy the core and reglass the deck back with lots of fairing. I'm hoping that if I have all the materials I'll be able to accomplish all that in a day or two as opening the deck is something I've dreaded for years on different boats and I don't want to get stuck with the thing open. I'm going to use something called "space age" which is supposed to be the resin version of plywood according to my supplier and should have all the compressive strength I need. 

I thought a lot of thickened West System epoxy under and over the plug and lots of matting on top. If you found a better system, please let me know.

Thanks

Like everything, I'm going to start with one concept and be surprised at how well something completely different worked out. I think that's why people post their projects online: they're surprised that things turned out ok. Isn't it half the fun of boatbuilding? Take out all the tools and supplies and see what happens.

R