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Hard Dodger for Valkyr

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Scott Carle

posts 606

11:40 am January 26,2012

Post edited 11:45 am –January 26,2012 by Scott Carle


I know I have been pretty absent lately:) amazing how life that includes a new child will keep you busy. (our daughter is now 10 months old)

I have been going slowly nuts with boat deprivation. None of our projects on the boat have been getting done. She is still sitting with the fuel tank un-repaired.

As spring approaches I finally just said getting back to the projects is a priority. Though I know the fuel tank is the most critical I met a guy a year or so ago that does aluminium fabrication. A few weeks ago I bumped into him again and was talking about how I would like a hard dodger. He hadn't done much on sail boats but had worked for Grady white,Hatteras and other big boat manufactures designing and building the hard tops and towers for their boats. He had a boat and a top he was working on in his shop  at the time and his work was absolutely beautiful. So I asked him to quote me on a aluminium frame for a hard dodger on Valkyr. Ouch!!!!  Our budget is limited and his quote was significant. The just the materials at his cost exceeded a grand. I really wanted an aluminium frame for the weight savings.  I also wanted someone else to build it as I hadn't gotten around to in in the last 18 months and probably wouldn't for another year if  I built it myself. Anything that I built would be decent but much heavier and not as visually appealing. My wife knowing me well just said "go for it. at least it will get done":)

Then came a couple weeks of design,redesign,pay a deposit for materials,one last meeting on the design and finding that it wouldn't work the way I had envisioned so back to the drawing board and redesign again. By now both they and I are feeling a bit frustrated.  What happened is that I wanted to incorporate a traveller into the top of the hard dodger so I could move it from near the transom.  We had a design for this but when we did the final on deck measurements we found that to give room between the boom and the dodger for the blocks and such that it pushed the dodger top down very low so that it would be harder to get in and out of the companionway. Also because of how low it was the support legs assumed some very awkward looking angles due to the aft windows. We couldn't put the forward leg of the traveller arch in the center of the window as there wasn't enough structural strength there to support the potential loads. We needed to move that leg forward to between the windows for the strength. After a couple of days and many hours of how about this and what about doing this way,I finally came to the conclusion that we could do it but it would look ugly and be uncomfortable to get under to get to the companionway.

I called him and told him to just disregard using the dodger for the traveller and that we were going to simplify to just being a solar panel support with hand rails on top for security and clearance to get in and out of the boat. A couple of days later he showed me a design that he had come up with that I absolutely loved. It was very strong and had lovely lines. 

 

It still needs for me to build the roof over it. The hand rails and aft boom protector rail are just temporarily bolted on. They will bolt on through the roof when finished and will be part of what holds the roof onto the frame. The frame is made of 1 1/4 inch ID 1/8 inch wall anodised marine grade aluminium ( I think the OD is 1 5/8 inch) . The hand rails are the same grade aluminium in 1 inch ID size. For deck pads we used hinged pads that will allow me to remove four large stainless bolts and pull the entire top off the boat. As it sits in these pictures it is just temporarily screwed to the deck with 8 screws. I still have to drill out all the mounting holes fill with epoxy and then re-drill through the epoxy plugs where the coring was. I was able to grab the frame and with all 188 lbs and all my strength yank and pull on the frame and it didn't even budge.

Amp Welding is the company that did the work.  Talk to Tom Arnold the owner and tell him I sent you:)

 

So after all that build up here are some pictures of the finished frame sitting on the boat.

 

This first picture is from aft portside view.

 

Aft starboard view

 

one of the things we were concerned about was visability while sitting or standing at the helm. There is great visibility under the dodger and when standing you can see very well also.

 

aft portside view of handrail and boom protector meeting at the mounting plate welded into the frame.

 

Close up of mounting plate and handrail and boom protector pads temporarily bolted to it.

underside of same mounting plate.

 

close up of the deck mounting pad and the backing plates that will be installed on the underside of the deck inside.

View down the starboard side of the dodger at handrail level.

Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr

Member

Jonathan Cline

S/V OASIS

posts 62

7:21 pm January 29,2012

What kind of windage do you think it will add.  Looks beautiful and big enough to give a large profile to the wind.  Any guesses on effect to sailing performance or stability?

Also what sealant are you planning to put between the plates before bolting thru?

Admin

Scott Carle

posts 606

9:30 pm January 29,2012

Post edited 9:47 am –January 31,2012 by Scott Carle


I am not sure about windage. It is 27 inchs tall above the coach roof. about 7+ ft wide and 9 feet long or so…I will have to measure it to get exact dimensions as they changed the length on me from the initial design to the final design. Right now the whole thing is weighs in at about 80 to 100 lbs. When I get the roof and solar panels on it I expect it will hit about 270 lbs total. I went with the aluminium and the high cost of it as a material to keep the weight down. We are planing on putting isnglass panels around the sides for cold weather etc..  I'm unsure if that will create more windage or reduce windage by removing the sail that  the top of the dodger will form. I will report on it after using it for a while.

 

I just finished mounting it today. I drilled and routed out the core yesterday on the deck and backfilled with epoxy.  I drilled the pilot holes with a 1/4 inch drill bit all the way through the deck.  Then drilled the top layer of glass over the core with a 3/4 inch bit. Then used an allen wrench in my drill to take out the foam core. I think it created a empty cavity about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Then I use one of the caulking tubes of west system two part epoxy and injected it into the holes.:) after taping over the 1/4 inch holes in the inside of the boat. Didn't want epoxy dripping out on to the various parts of the galley,pilot berth and settees. I used another allen wrench to make sure that there were no air voids after injecting the epoxy.. the epoxy is pre-thickend so it is pretty stiff. If I got air out I kept adding epoxy till it stood proud of the deck. I did this to all 16 holes.

 

Today I came back and used a chisel to take off any epoxy that was standing proud of the deck.  Then I lined up the hard doger again and marked all the holes on the back two legs. Moved the dodger frame again to the side a bit and hand drilled all 8 holes through the epoxy plugs I created yesterday. Again I used a 1/4 inch drill bit as that is the size of the holes in the alumimium pads on the legs of the dodger. After that I took and dropped a couple big screws through the rear leg/pads/ into the deck holes to fix that end in place and then marked the front legs. I then moved the frame and drilled those 8 holes. 4 holes per leg. After that I got a countersink bit and counter sank all 16 holes just under a 1/4 inch. Maybe an 1/8. Then a trip to the store for 16  2  1/2 inch  1/4 inch machine screws in stainless.:( 23 dollars for 16 of them and lock nuts to match.. I bought a extra bolt and two extra lock nuts but didn't need them:)

I went all old school on sealing the deck pads and holes. I used butyl rubber. I ordered a bunch of it in a white color a while back in 50 ft rolls because I knew I had this project coming up.  I raised the legs up 8 or 9 inches and rotated the pads till I could access the bottom of them and doing the back two first totally covered the bottom in butyl and then punched out the holes with one of the bolts. I then rolled a small piece into a thin roll and wrapped it around the bolts just under the head of the bolt. Inserted the bolt into the pad till that roll squished and then made a bigger roll and put it around the bolt up against the bottom of the pads. I sorta formed it into a cone so that when the bolts are tightened it would squish down into the countersunk top of the holes and form a compression O-ring of sorts and totally seal the hole and threads. We then carefully dropped the frame down while guiding the bolts into the holes. Surprisingly everything lined up and fit perfectly on deck. I then had a friend drop by just in time to use a screw driver to keep the bolts from from turning while I used a racheting wrench below decks to tighten everything down. I used identical size and bolt pattern aluminium pads as backing plates below deck. I did not bed them or the bolts below deck.  I had to wallow out 5 out of the 16 holes on the backing plates below deck because the bolts were not perfectly parallel. The worst of them was only about 1/16 of an inch out of alignment.  I felt pretty good about that given I drilled all the holes by eye. Not sure where my drill with a bubble in it went.  though on second thought I would have messed u if I did that a the deck has camber and the holes needed to be drilled 90 degrees to the camber,not to level. We tightened all holes fore and aft and then starboard and port on each leg. Going back and re-tightening after getting the initial round done. I did not try to tighten it super tight but did get it very snug. I will go back in a week and tighten once more. The butyl rubber needs time to ooze out as the initial tightening takes affect. Done this way it should stay water proof for the life of the boat or until someone spins a screw messing with it and breaks the seal created in the area that was countersunk. The butyl rubber should stay soft and pliable for another 30 years. I have stuff that was bedded by the manufacture on valkyr that used butyl and it is still mostly pliable. What they didnt do is replace the core in the deck with resin or countersink the topside of the deck before mounting hardware. Even not doing that most of the hardware on valkyr still didn't leak.

 

I took pictures of the process and will post them when I get a chance. I'm on my netbook sitting on the boat right now and don't feel like playing with pictures with this computer.

 

Ok I got the pictures off my phone and here are a few that show the above process.

 

The hole in the bottom is 1/4 inch. This is the size of the bolts that will be used to mount the hard dodger. In this picture and the next couple you can see where I wallowed out the foam core.

 

Starting to fill the holes with epoxy.

More epoxy:)

 

aft starboard leg holes filled with epoxy. Notice how high the epoxy is mounded..

 

I bought a cheap set of sacrificial Allen wrenches for wallowing out the core and for making sure there were no air voids in the epoxy once it was injected into the holes. I had to add epoxy to about 1/3 of the holes because of air trapped in the hole.

 

I'm not sure if this displays it well but the epoxy shrank a bit over night as it hardened.

 

I used a wood chisel to smooth the epoxy out and make the area the pad would sit on flat. I even took down the non-skit where the edge of the pad would sit. I would have sanded before bedding here if I had been using 5200 or some other similar product but with the butyl I didn't worry about it. The butyl has little to no adhesive quality/strength of its own and is just a bedding compound that fills and seals between the pad and deck. The bolts are what hold the hard dodger on. I think 16 1/4 inch stainless bolts will do the trick.

scott

Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr

Admin

Scott Carle

posts 606

7:43 pm January 30,2012

Ok here are the pictures of bedding the pads on the legs on deck.

 

First I covered the base of the mounting pad with the butyl. I comes on a roll about 3/4 inches wide and just less than 1/8th inch thick. Then I used on of the mounting bolt/screws and punched out the butyl over the holes.

Then I took and rolled a small piece into a thin tube and wrapped it around the bolt just under the head. When inserted into the hole in the pad this will seal the screw head from water in the hole.

 

You get the idea here.:)

 

Then you take larger pieces of the butyl and create a cone shape on the base. These pieces will go into the countersunk portion of the holes through the deck. As you tighten it all down it will force this material into the threads of the bolt and form a sort of o-ring of butyl around the bolt to totally make it water proof.

 

You can see here after tightening it a bit that the excess butyl is oozing out. The secret is to tighten all the bolts,wait a bit,tighten a little more and then wait a day or two and tighten it a little more as needed. You also need to have someone keeping the bolt from turning as you tighten. If the bolt turns it can tear the seal of butyl material you have created and create a leak.

 

Another close up of a pad after the initial tightening. After I had all of them tightened up I went around with a knife and cut the butyl around them neatly and peeled up the excess. The next morning it had oozed more out around the edge of the pad. I will give it a few more days and then give another small tightening.  The butyl should stay flexible for in excess of 20 years. I can still work some of the original butyl on factory fittings in my hand and it will with a bit of heat from my hands become pliable again.

 

The hard dodger feels incredibly strong and solid with it all bolted in.

Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr

s.maxw
Member

Scott Maxwell

Portland

posts 19

12:04 am January 31,2012

Beautiful bedding job Scott,and a handsome dodger!

 

Oh and I'm a bit jealous when I think about boats in places where it doesn't rain every day:)

 

Scott Maxwell

Scott Maxwell DE 32 s/v Amatheia

Admin

Scott Carle

posts 606

9:55 am January 31,2012

Thanks Scott,

Last  year this time we had average temps in the 20's and 30's during the day and now in january we have had just a few cold days. Most days it seems it gets into the 60's and 70's. Makes you worry about when the other shoe will drop.

 

I think that your part of the country is absolutely beautiful,but im not sure I would survive constant rain. I would love to visit for a while up on the northern coastline there though. I was looking at the cost of getting valkyr there the other day. Ouch.. the panama canal fee now for small boats is almost 2000 dollars.

 

So how is Amatheia coming along? I have been so busy with my daughter and life in general that I really haven't been keeping up with members websites and their boats. One day soon I plan on a whole day of scraping up new stories and getting a schedule of posts for the front page going again. I feel kinda bad that the site has been sitting static for so long.

Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr

s.maxw
Member

Scott Maxwell

Portland

posts 19

12:47 am February 4,2012

Hey Scott,

All is well,Amatheia had a fun summer and fall last,sailing north from the Columbia River and cruising around the San Juan Islands and the Puget Sound. She is berthed in Olympia,right at the southernmost part of the Sound and just 2 hours north from Portland by car. I'm up there a lot and with spring coming on will do some exploring in that area.

And just as soon as I complained about the rain,presto,it stopped! We have a rare sunny weekend forecast and I took the opportunity to play hooky and take her out for a sail today,just gorgeous with Mt Rainier and the Olympic Mtns all white with snow and gleaming in the sun.

I'm glad that fatherhood is going well for you AND you get to work on the boat too!

 

Scott M.

Scott Maxwell DE 32 s/v Amatheia

Admin

Scott Carle

posts 606

9:39 am February 4,2012

glad to hear you got out. I am just dying to get valkyr away from the dock. I still haven't fixed the fuel tank:( I think I'm going to plumb in a portable tank till I fix the main one.:)

scott

Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr

Member

Jonathan Cline

S/V OASIS

posts 62

11:51 pm February 4,2012

Thanks for posting all the pics.  They are great.

Now if you'd just lengthen it by about 4 feet you'd have an excellent pilot house project:-D

Admin

Scott Carle

posts 606

8:11 pm February 5,2012

Post edited 8:32 pm –February 5,2012 by Scott Carle


lol.. I would love a pilot house version of this boat.. the rare DE41…We actually looked at one online that was for sale and drooled over it,however it was beyond our means.:)

 We are planning on taking the old stainless dodger  frame and mounting it to the aft pulpit at teh sides so that it goes over the pilots seat. All we need then is to put a canvas cover on it and connect that to the aft end of the dodger:) sorta pilothouse.

Scott

Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr

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