Rigging plan needed Will be changing all ropes Sails and Rigging- Standing and Running Forums

My understanding is that the 41 pilothouse is a DE38 modified with pilot house. So for running rigging I think it would be the same specks. As to standing rigging it would be same speck on diameter for all stays but might be slightly longer or shorter due to geometry changes from different setup with pilot house there and extra 2 to 3 ft length.. When we replaced our standing rigging on valkyr we pulled it down one piece at the time, measured and cut new stay put ends on and put it back up, then moved to next stay. Wasn't because we didn't know what length it should have been but just that we could do it ourselves without taking mast down that way. however it would allow you to replace on site an existing rig that you weren't sure how long each stay should be. Just buy the aggregate length plus 2x the length of the longest stay in that diameter of each size stay. That way you have extra length if needed and at least one spare length of stay in each diameter large enough to replace the longest stay in that size.

I would look at the hi-mod mechanical fittings http://hayn.com/marine/rigging.....himod.html

When we did Valkyr and did it ourselves we used these fitting both top and bottom on all standing rigging. They are reusable even down to the compression cones. which meant that we could replace a stay top to bottom with existing equipment with just a few simple tools and a spare length of stainless wire.

Our cost of replacing Valkyr or DE38's standing rigging was just at 1800 dollars 2 or 3 years ago for all fittings and wire not including the forestay and staysail stay.. figure an extra 200 or so for those. So roughly 2000 to 2200 in hardware and we did the labor ourselves over about a week doing  2 or 3 stays a day with just me and my wife. She would run me up the mast to take off the stay and then back down. I would cut and make new stay and then she would run me back up to replace it. Wash, rinse and repeat another 8 times. Actually on the lowers I did the matching port and starboard ones at the same time to save trips up.

I was tempted to buy extra h-mod fittings at the time and re-use the old rigging as new lifelines. However money was tight and 16 more fittings plus gate equipment was more than I had extra. Still would have been under 400 for the fittings and would have upgraded the size of the lifelines to a more comfortable bare wire and as a secondary purpose left us with spare hi-mod fittings we could have scavenged in an emergency for the rigging. As it was we just purchased one each extra of the fittings as spares. ? maybe or we meant to? lol.. I don't remember at this point.

We purchased our rigging at https://www.riggingandhardware.com and got a a good deal. hi-mod fittings look a little more expensive now but its been a while. roughly 2 dollars a foot for rigging and 55 dollars per end for fittings now. (just at a quick look the fittings are still 10 dollars cheaper each than some of the other internet prices for them.) The fittings for the bob-stay were most expensive at about 90 dollars back then. with that short length of cable being almost 40 dollars for the cable. Glad it's the only piece that size on the boat.

We used a rotozip with a cutoff wheel on it to cut the cable to length. Put a nail in the dock to drop the old stay over and pull out tight and then measured eye to eye and used the information on the hi-mod fittings to figure that length out in cable plus hi-mod length. Then looked at how much takeup stretch there was in the old rigging based on how tight the turnbuckles were. Then adjusted the new stay length that much shorter so we could let out the turnbuckles and have room to tension and then tension again as the new stays stretch. Then cut and made new stay. We measured 2 and 3 times and wrote it down. Then calculated out the stretch several times and thought about it a couple times before cutting each stay. It all worked out great. Just go slow and measure several times and make sure your numbers don't sound crazy. You cut it long it's easy to fix. you cut it short and your buying a new piece of wire. Thats also why we purchased extra wire to give is some slop just in case.

Calculating tensions for a new rig might be pretty complex but replacing an existing one is not rocket science. Simple measuring and some addition and subtraction to make sure the length with fittings comes out right, then adjusting for how far the turnbuckles on the old rigging need to be turned out and the new rigging shortened the same amount for the final length to cut.