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Preventer
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Jonathan Oasis
S/V OASIS
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November 13, 2013 - 11:40 pm
Member Since: April 5, 2011
Forum Posts: 174
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I ran across this interesting description of a preventer setup.  Its a bit different than the single line/block I have seen typically.

 

http://www.oceannavigator.com/…..-voyaging/

http://www.oceannavigator.com /January-February-2013/Downwind-voyaging/

A proper preventer serves three purposes — it stops the boom from accidentally gybing, it stabilizes the mainsail off the wind, and properly rigged, it lowers the risk of breaking the boom if you dip it in the water.

Mia Karlsson

All white sails flying on Kinship, a Saga 43, in mid-Atlantic. Solent jib is sheeted to windward.

Kinship had a good system — the spinnaker foreguys were permanently led on both sides of the deck. They clipped to eyes on the bow pulpit when not in use, led around blocks right at the bow, and could be easily led aft and to the boom end when used as a preventer. The key is to lead the preventer all the way to the bow and all the way to the boom end. If the boom end dips during a roll, the force will be on the preventer line, and the longer that line, the more give and the greater the angle.

The best preventer system I’ve seen was taught to me by my former boss, Mike Meer of Southbound Cruising Services in Annapolis. Meer rigs permanent foreguys as on Kinship, then leads a length of Dyneema down each side of the boom, affixing them on padeyes aft. The Dyneema is lead forward and clipped to the boom just before the gooseneck. The foreguy is then lead to the goose-neck end of the Dyneema, and the lines are clipped together — the advantage is that prior to a gybe, the opposite preventer can be rigged from the gooseneck rather than leaning out over the water and trying to reach the boom end. The Dyneema acts as a permanent messenger line.

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Scott Carle
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November 14, 2013 - 8:10 am
Member Since: October 10, 2009
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I'm trying to picture the dyneema leads and how they work?

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Scott Carle
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November 14, 2013 - 8:13 am
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I followed the link and think Ive got  it now. That is pretty slick.

scott

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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Jonathan Oasis
S/V OASIS
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November 14, 2013 - 10:58 am
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Great!  Then maybe you can explain it to me, LOL !

Here is my interpretation which may not be right and if it's wrong maybe I'll delete it 😛

I guess they made two identical, short "boom messenger lines" out of amsteel blue SK75 (or similar line).  Each end of the messenger lines have a snap shackle. The lines are attached to the boom to be ready to use.  One line on each side of the boom running along the boom (port side & starboard side).  Attach one end of the line at the boom gooseneck, and attach the other end of the line at mid-boom.  Then, run two permanent foreguys along each beam: one end attached to a strong point at the bow (through a block if necessary to run back to the cockpit along the beam outside of all hardware), and the other end attached to what(??) in the cockpit. 

A simple diagram would be worth a thousand words at this point.

Set up the preventer before the gybe by going to the mast and clipping the messenger line's gooseneck-end snap shackle to the permanent foreguy.  At this time the foreguy is slack.  Then gybe.  Then tighten the foreguy(??) to set the preventer.   When rigged, the foreguy runs tight along the beam, the messenger line is clipped around the foreguy (but free to run bow-to-stern??), and the other end of the messenger line is attached to the mid-boom. 

Remove the preventer before purposeful gybe by going to the mast and unclipping the mid-boom end of the messenger line, so the messenger line's snap shackle on the foreguy is free to fly back to the cockpit where the messenger line can be unclipped from the foreguy.   Then the messenger line is completely free. Then re-rig the messenger line on the boom to be ready to go again.

 

It seems the downside of this setup is that it requires going to the mast to set and to reset the preventer for each gybe.  The upside is that the attachment point is mid-boom so it can be reached easily (compared to end-boom preventer which might require leaning out over the beam to un-rig).

 

Here is what a local sailing guru had to say about the original description, when I sent it to him:

If you're concerned about the boom coming toward the centerline only, this would do the job and it would have an optimal lead angle for preventing the boom from moving in.  The thing it does not do, as a more traditional preventer would do is to work as a vang at the same time in that it will tighten the leech and minimize twist.  If you have a vang in addition to the preventer – you're covered.

I guess the other thing is that if you are flying a spinnaker at the same time you'd have a weather foreguy for the spinnaker pole and a leeward one for the boom.  Okay, now when you jibe you'd have to switch them.  No biggy, especially when cruising and you jibe weekly vs. moment by moment.

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Scott Carle
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November 16, 2013 - 1:20 pm
Member Since: October 10, 2009
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ok… i didn't see it as mid boom but more as end boom. The boom messenger lines are permanently attached end boom and stored tight against the boom clipped in near the gooseneck. I would have several eyes or attachment points along the cap rail for a snap shackle to attach so that you could run your line that clips into the messenger line and  have it lead from forward back or from midships up depending on point of sail etc… you could lead it back to the aft docking cleats or put in a dedicated cleat for this port and starboard.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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