Windows and such General Forum Forums

From the old forums a few posts on windows

Re: Cabin Windows

From: David Vreeland
Date: 24 Sep 1999

On ventilation: we have an opening port in the head and there is a dorade on the coach roof which also vents into the head. We keep the port shut when not on board but the doors to the head are kept open and there is some air movement to the grill located in the companionway drop boards. Our butterfly hatch is in sad shape and leaks badly, however, we do have a canvas cover for it and keep it in place most of the time. This keeps the water on the proper side of the cabin.

Cabin Windows

From: Bret Diamond
Date: 23 Sep 1999

I agree with Michael and others about the dangers of the picture windows, and I’d like to replace mine. I think that plxiglass is the way to go (vs. lexan) but my question is about trying to get them to open. I looked at a DE38 in Annapolis where they had removed the picture windows and rebuilt the doghouse sides and put in three 8″X24″ opening ports. while functional, this really did cut down considerably on the “open feeling” in the galley/salon area, not to mention altering the outside lines/look of the boat. I’ve seen thix plexiglass w/alumninum frames sliding windows on trawlers, wonder where you’d get them?

speaking of ventilation, anyone come up with a good plan yet? I have two dorades in the lazarette, the butterfly hatch over the salon, and the forward hatch, but that’s it.

Oh yeah, really like the traditional look of the butterfly hatch, but it leaks like a seive (when closed)–any suggestions?

One more thing–I have the fixed salon table and would like to make it a fold-down instead–any one have any suggestions?

thanks!!!

BD

Re: Cabin Windows

From: Carmine Pizzariello
Date: 09 Oct 1999

One of the posts about windows mentioned a prefrence for plexyglass (acrlyic) vs. Lexan (polycorbonate). What is the reason for this preference? When I built my window frames I did some investigation and found that GE plastics had a product called Marguard (sp???). This is a lexan sheet made specifically for in the weather applications. It is supposed to resist scratching and UV much better than regular lexan. They also use it on the New York City subway trains. It is MUCH MUCH stronger than plexyglass so far as I can tell. Some of the literature mentioned 30 times stronger. I was able to order a generic equivalent in a variety of sheet sizes from McMaster Carr. Comments???

Re: Cabin Windows

From: Carmine
Date: 09 Oct 1999

Some other comments about the Lexan as a window material. I have two seasons on the windows and they are still plenty clear with no crazing. They do tend to scratch easier than I would like, but still acceptable. When you look through them wearing polorized sunglasses on a sunny day you can see a rainbow type of effect that shows the stress pattern in the pane.

Re: Cabin Windows

From: Bret D
Date: 27 Oct 1999

I was going to go with 1/2″ plexi just because of cost, as well as scratch and UV resistance…lexan costs a fortune!!! How much was the marguard stuff, and where did u get it??

Re: Cabin Windows

From: Carmine
Date: 10 Nov 1999

Here is a link giving some background on GE Lexan MR10 aka Marguard

http://web.archive.org/web/200.....sheet.html

I could not get the GE product without buying a full sheet so I got the generic equivalent from the McMaster-Carr industrial supply house. A 4X4 foot sheet of 3/8″ inch set me back $290. plus shipping.

This stuff is strong!!! They use it for the glazing on NYC subway trains. I found out about it doing some work for NYC transit.

I have had my windows in 2 seasons now and havn’t had a problem with yellowing. It will scratch if you take a knife to it – maybe about the same as peliglass. NYC found this out after elliminating graffitee. They now have something called scratcheetee – people carving thier initials in the lexan windows.

Hope this is helpfull.

Re: Cabin Windows

From: Jim Comeaux gsgwyb@online.nsk.su
Date: 21 Nov 1999

I read the thread with interest and visited the page that showed the work done. Nice work! I do have two questions though about the cabin window replacement. How are the risers (vertical supports)tied to the hull? If they are not glassed in then isn’t it possible that the structure is weaker than the original configuration rather than stronger? Was it just personal preference that prompted the change? I felt a little uncomfortable with the large “glass” area too so I had them replaced with 1/2″ Acrylic in a medium smoke color (at an astronomical cost). Is there a history of these particular windows blowing or washing out, or is it just a preventitive measure to redo the windows?

Re: Cabin Windows

From: Bill
Date: 17 Jan 2000

When replacing with 1/2″ what did you do about frames. The existing frames don’t seem very substantial. It is one of the weaknesses of the boat. I have avoided this project until I could find the best solution. I have seen a Downeaster that had the frames replaced with Teak frames and heavier plastic. Someone commented on having plywood panels ready to put in place for ocean crossing. How did you attach?

Re: Cabin Windows

From: Michael H
Date: 24 Nov 1999

Hi Jim,

The verticle pieces are inlaid and glued into the horizontal. As long as the wave is on the outside (grin) things should be ok as the load is compressive.

As for the why, you haven’t lived until the only thing sticking out of the water is your head and the masts. The integrity of the orignal ‘picture windows’ left a lot to be desired in my own mind.

Regards,

Michael H