Anyone with information regarding best options to replace the water tanks would be appreciated. ….Unfortunately my forward tank has a drip leak. I'm looking for someone that has actually done this job, not heard ways of doing it. I'd like to minimize the work scope as much as possible.
The previous owner had sprayed an FDA approved sealant that lasted 3-4 years. The new leak must be further up behind the baffle where he couldn't reach. He had drilled a 3" diameter access hole thru the baffle LH side to snake in the nozzle when he did it. He actually applied this product around all seams (joints) he could reach in both tanks. This was a noble effort.
1st thought is to try to cut another access hole thru the baffle, maybe with a wheel die grinder and re-apply a sealant again. Problem is getting in thru the top 8" access that has been added to the tank. These tanks will not be used for drinking water. So no concerns about using something nasty but that is just another band aid.
2nd thought is do the job right and physically cut the tanks out in pieces (may as well do both) and replace with one single custom plastic made tank that will fit thru the narrow deck access opening, thus permanently fixing the issue. this may reduce the gallons available but I don't care about that. However this method is a really big labor intensive pain in the butt!
3rd thought is cut the top off the tank at the access hatch opening (same size) then find a Bladder that fits best. Anybody done this? And, where did you get the bladder from? I'm researching and found some but I don't like the bladder idea. I do realize this is the most likely cost effective way to go, but the aft tank that is still OK has an even smaller access hatch and looks to be the more difficult one to do.
Idea's are welcome.
I did see the video on replacing the Fuel Tank.. Hope that never leaks has to done !!!
Paper Moon
Hull#136
I’ve got a de32 with the same problem...do you weld or know a welder? My plan is to cut most of the top of the tank off leavening a flange all around, and get some 316l stainless plate from online metals, tig weld big round patches with 316l wire over any leaks or into any corners. In essence doubling the tank walls from the inside. My tanks are fed from the bottom and my water supply comes out the bottom...not a good design I’ll cover them up with patches and when I put the top back on I’ll have dip tubes..not a hard job “if” you can tig weld or know some one who wont rape you on labor.
If (when) I decide to cut the top open (as a first step anyway) I'll leave a flange large enough to weld back a doubler that I could use to weld a new cover plate to. IF this were the way I would access the inside of the tank for repair and if there is enough room to reach and work on the interior surfaces, I would remove the baffles and then apply epoxy (NOT PAINT EPOXY) real epoxy to as much of the interior surfaces I could reach then test it to confirm no leaks, then simply weld the plate I cut out back onto the doubler. My tanks will not be used for drinking quality water.
However if I use this repair approach and find I cannot reach into the tank, Plan B may be finish cutting the top plate as large as possible (thru the deck hatch opening) and install a bladder. I've found manufacturers. The only other consideration I need to take in is the forward tank is probably close to the same condition but does not leak … yet. I may just decide to cut the floor sole between the tanks exposing the entire 2 hatch opening length and cut both tanks out in pieces and replace them with one long narrow plastic tank. I've found a company that makes them to order. One tank is better than two with the only downside is less gallons. which I don't care about.
Good luck with your repair, take pictures and let me know how it works out or what pitfalls you encountered I don't think you reach into and weld due to the size of the hatch opening . I think the DE 32 and DE 38 tanks are pretty much identical. however my water inlet is on top.
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