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I don't know what they're called, but there's four of them on the DE38....two on the bow and two on the stern....where the lines go through for the dock lines. I have two that need re-installing and seating into position. What sealant should I use? And/or epoxy, etc...? Any tricks, advice?
thanks.
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They are hawse pipes. I have had to rebed one of my forward ones and they only have bronze wood screws holding them in. I redid them the same way since they seem to have survived 30 years but I don't consider it to a really secure or proper way of doing it. I would like to have one side threaded so I could use a bronze bolt that ran from one side to the other and held the whole unit together rather than each side being independently screwed down. They are on my list of things to re-vist as I am not happy with them. The one that I redid has displaced about a half centimeter on one side. My plan is to refill all screw holes with epoxy and re-drill to give the screws a better bite. Unless I can figure a way to tap and drill one side and use long bronze bolts to span from one side to the other.
here is the writeup and pictures from when I did mine.
http://downeasteryachts.com/archives/564
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Thanks. 3M 4200 sounds like the stuff to use. I agree that the arrangement seems wimpy...but they do seem to last a long time. I've got enough on my plate to do already. So it's easy for me to accept that this shall be "good enough".
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When I redo mine I am going the evil route and using 5200. I want as much hold as I can get.. Those screws just don't give me warm and fuzzies....:)
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I'll look into 5200 before I start the project. If it's easy to do, why not?
I'm almost finished with the cap rail restoration...(what a hassle that was) So things are getting done. Since it's about to get rainy, I'm focused on leak prevention projects right now.
I'm also about to start the deck repainting project. How much of the existing deck paint should be sanded off in preparation for the primer and new paint?
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CAE,
I agree with Scott in using 5200 for this job. Just be sure to put on enough so it'll never leak.
I'd be interested in hearing about your Cap Rail restoration. Please consider adding another post with that topic in the Title?
2 years ago, I removed my cap rails. Since then, I've also removed the ceiling (slats running fore/aft inside the hull) which provides access to the undersides of the bulwarks. Since new teak is about a $5-6,000 job, I've been thinking of using rail (Cascade Yachts had a nice beefy rail) or finishing off the top of the bulwarks and putting eyes and eyes w/ cleats periodically. Also, I saw a Downeast with an amidships Hawse Cleat - I'd love to find one that is the right size... an amidships cleat is really nice to have when side tying single handed.
Thanks,
John
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deck paint? is it the non skid? gel coat on the non non-skid areas of deck or actual paint?
if it is paint the the official answer is to sand it all the way down. However if it has really good adhesion then you can generally get away with sanding smooth and using it as a base to paint on.. The real deal is to talk to the manufacture of whatever paint system you are going to use.
If it is gel coat then just sand down the oxidization and or down through any cracking or crazing and then paint up from there. follow directions of manufacture of paint.
if non-skid then technically sand it all down and build up from there. However we didn't do this. Instead I sanded the top of the nonskid quickly, cleaned with a very aggressive cleaner to remove all grease, oil etc.. and then painted my new nonskid over the top. so far it looks good and other than a couple places at the edge with it wasn't prepped right is holding very well. I have a couple areas the size of a quarter that lifted at the edge when I pulled the tape without cutting it in after painting.
I have cleats to install amidships.. it is one of my really want to get to projects.. your right that it makes a huge difference in ease of docking, especially single handed.
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