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Sea anchors and drogues
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timbalfour
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February 13, 2011 - 2:51 pm
Member Since: June 7, 2010
Forum Posts: 54
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Does anyone have experience/recommendations with either sea anchors or drogues?

I've carried a delta drogue on previous boats but never used it, mainly because two of them were double enders with external rudders that could get damaged when being thrown backwards whilst riding to a sea anchor (so I'm told?)

I'm looking at Jimbuoy's 36' dia sea anchor, which is a basic cone type - and the least expensive (not that that's a good/bad thing). I wonder whether the DE's hullshape/windage would ride well to a sea anchor or be better running off with a drogue ( or maybe lying-to)?

The serieze drogues seem to be the fashionable thing at the moment - anyone tried this?

Tim - DE32 -Pelli'

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svbodhran
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February 13, 2011 - 5:08 pm
Member Since: January 22, 2010
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I've never used either a sea anchor or a drogue, so I don't really know what I'm talking about.  I have hove to with Bodhran many times.  The cutaway forefoot on the Downeasters allow the bow to be blown off pretty easily, so there's no need to use a backed jib or staysail.  Depending on the wind strength I just use a double reefed main or the trysail sheeted in hard and then play with the wheel until I can maintain that good 50 degree angle to the wind.  I've had a hard time keeping all the forward momentum off, but am normally able to keep it to less than .5 knots so I'm mostly protected by my slick.  I carry an 8' parachute anchor which I have set up to run off a bridle between a block at the bow and my jib car.  If I were ever in any really bad seas I'd use the chute to keep Bodhran dead stopped and at 50 degrees to the waves.  I've never been caught out at sea in more than 45 knot sustained winds and find that heaving to with the trysail works fine up to that point.

 

I don't really like the idea of drogues.  They're meant to be towed behind to slow the boat down.  Problem with that is that it exposes your stern to the waves.  The bow of any boat is far stronger and more watertight than the stern.  It also requires that you sail downwind, possibly losing some hardfought windward miles.  Sea anchors off the bow are also problematic as they put enormous loads on whatever deck gear you've tied them off to when the boat pitches up at the same time as the sea anchor is swept by a wave.  Keeping the bow at a 50 degree angle minimizes both pitch and roll mitigating the pull on the anchor and the bridle splits the load to multiple points.  The problem with rudders is normally confined to boats with spade rudders.  As the boat slides back off a wave the rudder can be put hard over putting a lot of force on the single attachment point.  Our boats with their well supported hung keels and proper rudder stop built into the quadrant shouldn't have a problem with their rudders, though keeping the 50 degree angle also reduces the stress on the rudder when the boat slides down off a wave.  The biggest thing is to create a slick and knock the power out of the waves before they get to you.  If you've never hove to out in scary ocean waves, it's a truly magical thing.  I normally brew up a cup and spend the first hour or so while hove to up in the cockpit watching these big waves falling apart 100' from the boat when they hit my turbulence.

 

Hope that helps,

Jason

DE32 Bodhran

 

p.s. I hope that you meant a 36" Jimbuoy sea anchor.  36' would be huge and you'd never get it back in.  If the Jimbuoy sea anchor is the one I'm thinking of, it's really meant for keeping you in one spot while fishing and may not be up to the task of riding out a storm.

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timbalfour
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February 16, 2011 - 5:09 pm
Member Since: June 7, 2010
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Thanks for the info on heaving-to. All boats behave differently - I had a gaff-rigged cutter (double ender, that hove-to comfortably under reefed stays'l alone!!

I like to have something to slow me down when running - the direction one is mostly going in, on long passages. It's easy to find the wind and waves have increased, without realizing to what extent (especially at night), so that it would be dangerous to do anything but continue running. I once had a low profile sloop I was delivering doing 5knts under bare poles. So my thoughts are that the big stern on the DE32 could get her going so fast that she'd catch up with breaking waves - hence the need, perhaps for a drogue of some sort (I've dragged ropes/chain/tyres before).

The Jimbuoy sea anchor (yes, sorry, 36") claims to be good for boats up to 50'!! That's optimistic!  In fact that size would seem to be more correct for a drogue. The problem is always, where and how to attach things to the boat without breaking something or getting excessive chafe (and of course being able to retieve it).

Tim

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Scott Carle
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February 17, 2011 - 1:21 am
Member Since: October 10, 2009
Forum Posts: 1480
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we just purchased blocks for using a drogue off the bow to help us heave to in a major storm.. I still have to buy the 3/4 inch nylon rode I plan to use for it. However I'm glad to hear that in lighter winds such as 45 knots that she will heave to fairly easily. If you are looking for snatch blocks I can recomend the Garhauer 5000 lbs working load snatch blocks.. They are new only 150 some dollars each and are some very serious pieces of equipment when you hold them in your hand... or maybe I should say hold them in your two hands. Did I mention they are big? I will try and take some pictures of them to give them some scale. I couldn't find any other blocks built that had the strength rating and size rode rating for even 4 times the cost. http://garhauermarine.com/cata.....cfm?cid=26 we ordered directly from here and recivied the blocks in a week or so. I haven't used it yet 🙂 however I was seriously impressed with the quality just holding it in my hands.

 

70SN - Other


Snatch Blocks

70SN

length: 9-3/8 width: 4
weight: 36 oz. shackle: 3/8

sheave diameter: 4

Snatch blocks come with trunion snap shackle and feature a swivel side plate with pull pin. Safe working load is 5000 lbs.

$150.00

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