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Does anyone know how to remove the name plate located on the transom? Mine is starting to come loose and I can see some screws that are holding it on, but it's not clear to me how I could remove it or re-secure it.
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Not sure we even have a name plate on the stern.. I think that it is just the serial number imbedded in the jellcoat/fiberglass.
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Are you talking about the big fiberglass placard? We drilled with a titanium bit and drilled where the 9 (?) screwholes were. (We have two on our transom, one for the name and one for the port and the small one had 6 screws.) We drilled the screwheads off and then pried the placard off with a paint scraper. Took the remaining part of the screws out with vice grips, etc. Then re-potted the holes with epoxy. We haven't replaced it yet as the first go round with the name decal didn't take. So that's where we're at. But once I get the name decal right, we have ss self-tapping bolts from Swendsen's to replace.
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When we bought our DE 38 a few years back the placard was inside the boat already removed. I have looked at the stern in order to reapply it and have found that I will have to reinforce the transom in order for it to be completely secured. I plan on using SS plate strips inside and applying with bolts. My philosophy is that if it comes loose, remove and reapply with vengeance! But I'm kinda wired that way....
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Part of the name plate is pulling away from the hull, so I can see a couple of screws holding it in. I was hoping to remove it without destroying it, but I guess I'll just try prying it off and see where it gets me. if it pulls apart, I'll just write the name on in paint and be done with it. thanks
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I doubt you could destroy the nameplate. The screws were toast but the nameplate on our boat is solid fiberglass. It's virtually indestructible. Funny...Travis wanted to just put a decal on the transom so it's bigger. I wanted the nameplate. Think they are so classic looking and fit the boat.
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Diver is right, the plates are screwed on from the outside. If you look closely at the plate, you will find little circles where the screw heads are. Similar to bung holes on wood, but these plates are all resin. Get a Forstner bit and drill out the little circles and then you will be able to remove the screws quite easily. You might also need a Dremel to route out the resin from the head of the screw. If you want to re-use the name plate, just fill those holes with thickened epoxy and fair it down when it dries, once you have re-applied the plate to the transom. This does mean that you have to at the very least do touch-ups to your refurbished name plates from outside of the transom, rather than in the comfort of a shop. You could probably get away with drilling attaching your re-done name plate form inside the hull, with someone holding the plate in place while you drill and screw from within the lazarette. I would back up the install with some polysulfide adhesive/sealant like 4000UV to help hold it on in the case that the threads shake loose over time.
When I replaced the name plate and hailing port plate on Argyle, I went with plastic (polyethylene) plates. (The original name plate was in very bad shape, warped and with peices cracked off the edges.) I don't recommend plastic. They look OK, but the painted on name and hailing port does not bond to the substrate at all. So if anything touches the name plate, some paint scrapes off. I would go with traditional wood and paint over that if I were to do it again (which I may, one of these days.)
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What I notice about mine is the following..
The screws are not drilled in straight. They are tapped in at all kinds of crazy outward angles.
The screws used are ridiculously long. They stick into the engine compartment at least an inch and a half. I would hate to get poked by one.
The idea of getting back into the engine compartment to work on the quadrant, or whatever, already quite a cramped operation, with these more than half dozen points of death aimed at me, is not encouraging.
Because of this, I believe it would be nicer to use bolts, or at least round off the excess.
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I have noticed the same thing on the trailboard in the anchor locker. They used wood screws to screw it to the hull and the sharp ends just stick out in the anchor locker.
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A while ago I started a thread about "Artwork on the Bow" to which Scott kindly provided some links to related threads. As I also need to deal with the name board on the transom as well, I am posting a reply to a rather old thread.
I plan to change the name of my boat and, therefore, have to have the name board repainted. It can use a face lift anyway so I plan to redo the port of call even though the town (San Francisco) will be the same. My question for the assembled experts is: For those who painted names and/or ports of call with the One Shot paint, how has it held up over the years of exposure to sun and salt atmosphere. Do you wish you had opted for another method?
I plan to go for gold colored lettering (as it was originally) against a Royal Blue background (which is the color of the boot and shear stripes which are being redone at present). For the letters I am faced with the choice of gold leaf, gold paint (One Shot) or vinyl. I have contacted one sign painter who favors gold leaf for longevity. He says that One Shot will be faded in a couple of years (but what's new there?). Gold leaf will, of course, be expensive initially, but may well last a long time. 
I am a bit suspicious of vinyl but am willing to give it due consideration.
I'll deal with the trail boards eventually, but need to get the name sorted out pretty soon.
Ideas? Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Bob
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Our boat just has the name painted on the transom. Think that is the standard method... anything else is an upgrade from there
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Mine is gold leaf on vinyl, and actually there is a black decal slightly larger than the gold leaf letters, that make it "pop" a little more. My brother in law has a sign shop on Cape Cod, and I sent him a photograph of the name boards (when they were uninstalled), and he used the photo to match the curve of the nameboard. Here's the same photo, zoomed in.
Send me a message if you want the name and contact details of the sign shop!
Doug Mentuck
Perelandra
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Hey Doug.
Your name plates look fabulous. Well done.
Would you elaborate on exactly what you did? Gold leaf on vinyl? It sounds like you had a vinyl name "banner" made up, then applied gold leaf to it and then attached the "banner" to the name plate. Is that right? I am facing the question of trying to do gold leaf in place or to have the letters painted in One Shot gold paint. If I understand your "system" it seem relative easy and much more certain of a good outcome. I'll send a pm for more.
Thanks
Bob
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