Loggerhead's previous owner replaced the entire head system (Jabsco manual toilet, hoses, valves, and HUGE holding tank under V-berth) a few months before she became mine. The reason they replaced the system was apparent the first hot day or so I was aboard. Apparently, the previous system was leaking. By my guess, it had leaked for a long time. The small locker on the port side of the V-berth which housed the hoses smelt something fierce. So, I hosed it out with soap and water. A few days later, the odor remained. Tried clorox, "Petzyme" (which a friend had used to clean a fridge that had lost power with a bag of shrimp in it during the summer), and various other cleaners with no success. So, I painted it with Bilgekote to "seal" the smell in. It worked!!!!! For about 2 months. Now, I am starting to pick up the smell again. Lord knows, the clothes that are in that locker rank with odor--not sure which is worse, the bilgekote or the old pooh smell.
Any suggestions on riding my boat and my nostrils of this smell once and for all?
Lance
S/V "Loggerhead" DE38
Charleston, SC
I would be interested in this as well as Valkyr has a bit of this issue. I don't think it is as bad as what your describing though. I don't think we have had a leak. I just think the hoses and holding tank are old and oder permeated. Our plan is permanent removal of the head, hoses and holding tank. Super scrubdown and maybe epoxy paint the hull and areas where it was all installed. We are going to buy a natures head composting head and use it on Valkyr. We have friends living on boat that did this and they are very happy with it compared to a traditional head and holding tank arrangement.
Try spraying the whole area down with 50/50 water and vinegar. Vinegar is a wonder cleaner for a lot of stuff involving odor. It is especially good for mildew and fungas 🙂
Put a box of baking soda in the closet.
Maybe a second and or third coat of epoxy paint. Take a towel and wet it with hot water. wring it out till it is hot and just damp then wipe it real hard against the bilge coat and then sniff the rag to see what it smells like. If the odor is penetrating the bilge coat then it should show up on the rag. Test other areas to see if you can isolate what physical object the odor is coming off of. We find that Valkyr smells if closed up with no ventilation for a while but if there is active ventilation she doesn't smell bad. This is with those systems still in place. Air flow is the most important thing.
Is the odor coming from there or if you had a leak in the system did if flow down into the bilge areas and you have odor under there that is comeing back up into the other areas?
Thanks Scott.
The smell is only in that closet where the previous hoses, valve, and selector switch (tank vs overboard) were located. That closet has not opening to the bilge (thankfully, I suppose). I'll check out futher exactly where the smell is located in the closet with the warm wet rag idea.
Then, I'll try the vinegar and baking soda tips next.
Thanks again,
Lance
We got into this on valkyr this past week... it was so much worse than just old plumbing. We found a leak in the system that raw sewage had been leaking out of for many many moons.. It was a hazmat style operation to scoop the shit out of the little compartment under the aft end of the vberth where that built in seat is. We found that a decent painting respirator from lowes works wonders for getting up close and personal with shit. After scooping it out and then cleaning the respirator does wonders when you paint the bilge areas 🙂 After cleaning out the leakage we came back the next day and cut out and removed the head, all hoses, fittings and the holding tank. We then did a single rough clean and rinse of the compartment the leakage was in and the big v-berth compartment that the holding tank had been in.
As to odor.. the next day we cleaned all the lockers and bilge areas twice with oxyclean and a brush on a handle, then we cleaned twice with the brush and a very strong clorox solution. the second clorox cleaning we put it on strong and didn't rinse it till the next day. Just left it brushed on. The next day we cleaned twice with vinegar water. We used the vinegar at roughly 50/50 with water.The first time we used the brush to slop it on heavy. After everything had been covered we went pack with one of those foam sanding blocks and the bucket of vinegar and lightly sanded from the chain locker down through the bilges under the v-berth as well as all the closets and cabinets fiberglass surfaces (the sanding was a two for one idea. It was the last vinegar treatment as well as wet sanding the fiberglass and existing bilge paint in prep for us painting all the surfaces in the bilge). We also took the brush on a handle and scrubbed all the wood and every surface in the v-berth with 50/50 vinegar and water. We soaked it down good and scrubbed then took a hose down below and rinsed everything of with it. the sides of the cabin where the teak strips make the walls, the doors, door frames etc.. we must have pumped a hundred gallons of water through there rinsing. Gave the bilge pump a good workout. After rinsing we took paper towels and got as much excess water off of the wood as we could and then left it to dry overnight.
The next day when we got back we really worked hard to find some odor and couldn't. The v-berth now smelled clean. Actually the rest of the boat (saloon/galley area) still has a faint old boat smell. So the v-berth is now odor free. In my opinion the vinegar treatment was the most effective in removing the ingrained odors. I think that I would use the same methodology in the future. A good soap and water scrub to get the grime and dirt cleaned up. Then a clorox disinfecting followed by a vinegar scrub and rinse. The vinegar removes all traces of the prior treatments also and when it drys leaves no odor at all behind not even of the vinegar.
We decided to go the extra mile and spent two days painting the bilge areas, and inside all the cabinets and closets with brightsides gloss white one part polyurethane paint. We put two coats on and it looks awesome. Zsanic did the majority of the painting as she could get into some of the tight areas a lot easier than I could. We found that a can of acetone and a roll of paper towels were a necessity. Somehow you were constantly getting a drip or smudge of the paint somewhere on the wood above the bilges as you moved around and braced yourself. The acetone on a rag pulled the paint right back off. As you can imaging the odor of the solvents in the paint were overwhelming. We were not allowed to work in the v-berth area unless we were wearing the respirator, we also got a cheap box fan and it fit perfectly in the forward hatch pulling air up and out of the boat. Once the box fan was running you could stand in the v-berth door and not even smell the paint while we were painting. For the person in there painting it reduced the fumes by about 90%. With the respirator on you couldn't smell any fumes at all. Even though brightsides is a one part paint and not one of the eviler two part polyurethanes it is still toxic and proper safety with respirators and ventilation is a must.
We are now reasured that by the time we have gone through the whole boat as we work our way back through the saloon and galley the boat will smell very sweet as opposed to the current slightly mildewy old boat odor. If we can knock out the odor from leaked sewage that sat in that forward compartment for months then the normal old boat odors should tremble in their shoes.
As you all know, Scott and I are working on replacing the traditional head with a composting head. I am really excited to see the progress we have made. As Scott mentioned, we had a leak in the old hose. So, we ended up taking a couple of days cleaning the whole bilge area of the V-berth. Scott mentioned the use of 50/50 vinegar and water. Be aware that with the vinegar we did experience some color change in the teak, along with some of the many layers of grime. We intend to lighten our wood , so we did not mind.
When applying the paint, we used a 4"inch roller that helped to get into most of the tight spots. When that was not small enough we used a cheap sponge brush. I would not use that again. The surface of the inside of the hull is rough enough that it made the sponge deteriorate and small and big pieces of it come off while painting. We painted every surface 2x including the undersides of the compartments and all the cabinets and hanging lockers.
Good luck in all your projects and experiences on your boat!
Sorry for the delay in replying; life has been occuring.
Just to follow-up on my original issue, apparently I mispoke earlier. The previous owner only replaced the holding tank and relocated the hoses and y-valve. After much effort, all the hoses have now been replaced and I am happy to report that the closet through which the head hoses run now smells as fresh as daisies. Well, as much as can be expected, with a box of baking soda in the bottom and a dehumidifier bag hanging on the clothes rod.
Thanks for your suggestions. I will continue to monitor this post as one day I plan on investing in the composter.
Thanks
Lance
S/V Loggerhead
38' Downeaster Cutter Rig
I'm not sure if the lightening of the teak was due to chemical lightening or just the many years of rubbed in grime washing away. However Zsanic is right. It lightened up some. When washing it down and rinsing it afterward the water ran dark brown for a long time as it ran down onto the vberth.. It was pretty disgusting. We kept washing and rinsing till it wasn't running brown. I remembered someone else mentioning that they had done this and had a lot of warpage in the teak in the v-berth due to swelling with the water, but that it later straighened back up after it dried. In our experience we didn't see any warpage at all. I'm not sure why such different results for soaking down that wood between two boats but I thought I would throw it out there for everyone else. Just one more data point.
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