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I've seen Gold or white paint applied to the raised portion of the art work on the Bow, looks nice.
http://i121.photobucket.com/al.....512204.jpg
Photo courtesy of S/V Giotta
So, I'm going to attempt to duplicate on mine. Anyone else attempted this with good results? Thanks
The start....Before (dull red)
http://i121.photobucket.com/al.....cc21b1.jpg
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Valkyr doesn't have the highlighting but it would look awesome if done in gold… I have thought about doing it. Picture is an old one and valkyr looks a lot different now 🙂
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There was a pic somewhere on here of a boat with a black or navy blue shear stripe and gold scroll work. It looked really sharp. I refreshed Bodhran's white paint on the scroll work 4 years ago. It's still looking pretty good.
Jason
DE32 Bodhran
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Yes Scott, that would really bring it out Nice.
I'm wondering if I should have bought white lettering paint instead of Gold now.
The local marina transom painter says there is only one paint brand to purchase when doing lettering, art work etc.
It's called One Shot lettering/ sign paint. It's available on EBay in all colors.
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I think the gold will go really well with the red.. White would to but unlike Jason you haven't painted the cap rail white and have a wood/teak look there. I think the gold with go better with that than the white would. Jason's with that white stripe of the cap rail up above really sets off the white on the trim on the trail board.. I have to say the green and white look is really nice on his boat.
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I re-did the "bling" on Argyle a few years ago. It was pretty tired after years of neglect. The boards, which are made from molded resin of some sort, had also warped a bit and were pulling away from the hull. I've heard of the boards getting ripped off from the hull when a strong wave hits the bow and the board is warped enough so that the force of the wave can get under it and pull it away. So, before I painted it on a cleaned between the board and the hull as best I could with a nylon wheel followed by acetone, then filled the gap with 3M 4kUV.
The painting part started out slow. First I painted the entire board with blue. I used some sort of marine paint, but I don't remember which one. Probably picked it up at WM. A few days later I started applying the gold paint. When I started I was using a small, arts and crafts type brush but this was going very slowly and didn't look all that great. I thought back to my days doing plastic model airplanes and I remembered that when you are painting the proud parts of a molded piece, the easiest way to do that was use a stamp type technique. So I got a fine sponge, painted the gold paint on the sponge and then just tipped the sponge on the parts that were sticking up. I still needed the small brush for some details, but with the sponge, the process went very fast.
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Our trailboard is very warped also. I have thought about building new ones. However given your description, I wonder if I used a heat gun could I soften and form them back to the hull.
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Argyle,
Very nice job!
That scroll work just really brings out the traditional look of our DEs.
I've debated whether to paint the border around as you did,..I'm convinced to do it now.
Scott,
I knew of a DE owner who's warp board was crumbling apart. While he still had the old one to use as a pattern he removed it.
He built a small template with scrap 1 by 2 for a mold pan. He basically filled it with plaster of Paris or Marine Tex??.....I just know it looked white. He inserted the old trail board into it. After it set up he sanded, painted it a bit, and mounted it.
Scroll work on Cutty Sark
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When I was a wee lad, I was told they were called "Knights Boards"... of course that was a T-Rex that told me that. [Image Can Not Be Found]
Mine are not attachments, they are molded into the hull, I can stick my head in the chain locker, and clearly make out the inverted scroll work....
The Trailboard is an attachment though.... I've been considering removing it, and reproducing it in teak.
That would be a huge project, and I'm not sure I have the skills required to do that, so more than likely, it will just get refinished, and reinstalled. [Image Can Not Be Found]
S/V The Last Farewell,
Currently laying Panchos Marina
Marathon, Florida
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You have something actually molded into the glass of the boat there? and a trailboard attached over it? beside it? I'm not clear on what your describing.. Pictures? worth a thousand words 🙂 lol
scott
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Sorry Scott, I just re-read that post..... no wonder your confused, that's what I get for trying to post at Midnight.
Straight to the facts... I misused terminology last night, my bad.
My Trailboards are molded into the hull, they are not an attachment, from inside the chain locker forward of the V-berth, I can see the back side of them, and make out the details. ( I wish they were removable, as it it would make life a lot easier to refinish them).
The Nameboard on the Transom is removeable, and that is what I've been considering reproducing out of teak. My Nameboard is a flimsy POS..... you can push on the center of it with one finger, and just about crack it. If is end up reusing it, I'll be reinforcing it on the backside.
Pictures at the moment are not possible, as I'm 300 miles away.... and snowed in [Image Can Not Be Found]
What I was told were "Knights Boards" are in fact, Trailboards on each side of the bow. An old marina goat told me they were called Knights Boards, when in fact, I bet he had no clue what they were called, but because he coughed up a name for them, to a starry eyed young sailor... he appeared to be an authority on the subject ( granted that was 1968 or so ), I've noticed a number of Marina Sailors have PHDs ( Piled Higher & Deeper) in all things aquatic. [Image Can Not Be Found]
S/V The Last Farewell,
Currently laying Panchos Marina
Marathon, Florida
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rofl 🙂
I like that PHD (piled higher deeper).
I have a friend that works with a bunch of PHD's at the university and that seems to describe most of them to a T also. He is constantly working to keep them from killing themselves or someone else on their marine science projects. He is the Dive Safety Officer for the University and says that they know a lot about their very narrow speciality within their field. Therefore they think they know everything about everything and try to tell him how to do his job. He has almost quit over safety issues he is responsible for 3 or 4 times because they wouldn't follow regulations much less common sense. So far that is his big hold on them I think and it will end up having him lose his job eventually. He just threatens in the middle of the project to walk off because he won't be responsible for it anymore if they don't follow safety precautions. This doesn't even count the number of times he has tried to talk them into doing stuff better ways in how to install and mount multi thousand dollar equipment under water in different environments such as tidal, ocean, marsh etc... That stuff he ends up doing their way after getting it in writing so he can be protected when the equipment is ripped away and disapears because it wasn't properly secured for the environment. Was just talking to him the other day and he was venting about it. Funny thing is though he doesn't have a masters or doctorate in the subject he does have a bachelors in it from that same university as well as 30 years of experience as a diver and about 20 years as a dive instructor. He has made his living diving for that 30 years and they don't listen. lol he certified some of them in how to dive. Regrets is bitterly some days (certifying them that is).
I actually know him and a lot of the professors as I went to school with him and have a minor in marine science from their also. 20% of them are stand up good and reasonable people.. the other 80% are kinda scary.
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I have never heard it called "knights boards" before. Not saying it couldn't have been thought.
I wonder why your boat has it worked right into the fiberglass and others like mine have removable boards screwed to the hull.
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I took the advice of a previous poster here. I took a six inch foam roller and rolled over the Proud portion of the scroll. Worked Great!,...it was a 10 minute job. I used One Shot Gold Sign lettering paint bought off EBay.
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Very nice.. glad to hear and see it turned out like that.. now that I have seen it I will know how to do it myself when I get to it 🙂
scott
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Obviously I'm catching up on old posts here...I've been actually working a lot and working on the boat and even sailing! So not so much time online but WOW...love all the TLC these boats are getting. We have such awesome looking boats...it's just really cool to see people fixing them up and the attention to detail like the scrollwork. Looking sooo pretty. I had not though of using a sponge to get the top part but what a brilliant idea. I think about re-doing those every time I walk past them. (But I'm about halfway done stripping all the deck teak so I try and stay focused...note the key word "try") When we did the nameplate on the Transom, I went in with a fine arts brush and did gold in the indented area on the "Ribbon" of the nameplate and it looks really good but did take a long time. So the nameplate is blue and with gold trim and the name in gold. Looks pretty good so I want to re-do the blue and gold on the decorative "knight's board" also. I also want to redo the the engraved "Downeaster 38" on the cove stripe where it was painted over by a PO. All on the list....the never ending list....
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Thanks everybody for the input. Dolphin too has some cracks in her "Knight's Boards." Filling/fixing with Marine tex or something is what I might need to do. If anyone chooses to make new molds, I am sure there would be some purchasers of this fine and necessary product.
Rick
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