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So I've moved all the chain plates to outside the hull. Looks great! Now I'm on to the backstay I guess that ones gotta stay put since the name plackard ( not sure what they're called). Is in the way. What have others done?
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lol.. no advice here other than leave it where it is or move name plate..
Ok... actually I do.. I know of people that have moved their backstay a few inches one side or the other of center to clear an obstruction. However I'm not sure how far would be safe.. I would think up to a 12 inches either way would be safe.. Your only talking about what? 1/2 a degree of angle?
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Yes thinking I'll just leave it. Boy is it back there haven't even gotten back there yet. I repacked my stuffing box last night that's another tight one. I read a few posts about replaceing the Cutlass bearing. Some say lift the engine, taking the rudder off seems like one hell of a job. I think I read some one mentioned sliding the shaft back ( theres about 3 inches back there before it hits the rudder) I I were to do that and take the coupleing off the shaft remove the prop is it possible to do the job with out lifting the motor or removeing the rudder? Not sure if they actually did it or was just a thought. Do you happen to know? I tell you as much as I hate this boat ( don't see all during major refit haha) it's one hell of a boat. Had the dremmel out today getting into the hull blisters and saw how thick this hull is. The gel coat is really thin on mine almost as thick as a layer of paint would be. But I'd rather have layup then gel coat. And do you happen to know what the rudder is made of? Knocking on it almost seems a hollow metal? Mines got what I think is really thick epoxy on it. And all the sanding in the world I couldn't get to the core of what it is. From what I thought most boats have a plywood with glass over it. This thing seems pretty some solid.
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We redid that surface of our rudder a few years ago.. It is a foam core with glass over it. stainless shaft welded to an armature that goes into the rudder I believe. We had someone grind it down mostly to the foam layer and use epoxy to rebuild it. Kind of pre-emptive maintenance due to some cracks that were showing up in the surface. Guy offered to do it for 300 dollars labor and parts so it was hard to pass it up. Material cost was well over 100 dollars. Watched him do it to make sure he did a good job and I was happy with the work.
If you want to get through the glass etc. take a 4 inch grinder and use it. It's scary what a grinder made for grinding metal will do to fiberglass. If it gets caked in the grinding surface just use a steel wire brush to run the grinder against for a second to clean it out and go again. The downside is that instead of having to work till you drop sanding through you have to be super super careful not to gouge out to much and create a rough surface or take to much off.
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