Log In
Register
Home
Topic RSS
Offline
Scott – not sure if this is the right place for this – basically just a list of the work I did on Pelli for our records. I can elaborate on specific items, if anyone is interested, and email the before and after pics. Sorry I couldn’t work out how to post them.
1. (of 2)
Pelli – DE32 refit – Dec.’08 to April ’10.
Bottom OK been re-sealed in recent past. Rigging (standing) good – at least one size bigger than specified. Insulators added to backstay for Ham radio antenna. Spars OK, painted booms 2 part epoxy then 2 part Poly urethane. Replaced all running rigging.
New VHF antenna, LED tri, windex, steaming/foredeck light, wiring, radar reflector.
New lower running lights added fore and aft. MOB pole added, plus life ring and light.
New tanbark mainsail and staysail (made in France by family). Existing jibs, storm sails, light weather sails re-cut etc. Jibs changed for new Alado furler ( foil can take two – has own halyards to top swivel and whole unit can be fitted/removed from deck).
Sunbrella covers made for main and staysail and strips added to furling jib for sun protection.
Manual windlass fitted, replaced bow roller and added second one to port.
Capping (in very bad condition) removed; top of bulwarks glassed. Stanchion bases enlarged with thicker s/s and bigger bolts. One extra added each side. Specrta lifelines made, attached with lashings instead of the. mini turnbuckles
Boarding ladder fitted aft.
Norvane self steering windvane fitted.
New fore hatch made (can hinge fore or aft)
Fitted center hatch over saloon ( this older version of the DE32 didn’t have one)
Pair of hand rails re-installed. Second pair made and fitted.
Companionway hatch made with ‘turtle’(Didn’t have one originally), plus splash guards to take new dodger.
Hawses and deck drains re-bedded .
Cabin sides partially reconstructed to take smaller windows aft and smaller oval s/s ports forward.
Cockpit combings added. Divided, to allow opening of port locker. Starb.(propane) locker lid reduced by half, can still get two’squat’ tanks in (plus a lot of other junk.
Wheel steering removed, pedestal rails (with compass) shortened and fastened at forward end of cockpit for safe hand hold exiting companionway/life line attachment.
Plastimo offshore liferaft (fits in aft of cockpit whilst underway – a bit cramped works)
New bimini made.
Rudder shaft head s/s made by Fred Lindow.
Laminated tiller made.
Engine controls and hand bilge pump fitted in aft of cockpit
Decks and cabin top etc. prepped and painted with Devoe 2part polyurethane (with non-slip areas).
Made screens for hatches and ports (Method for any shaped ports involves glassing around a ‘plug’ slightly smaller than the port ‘tube’, slicing-off half inch sections and epoxying screen to edge. I can photo this and explain more if anyone is interested).
Winches overhauled
Sailing 8’ ‘El Toro’ made for tender. Fits crosswise on cabin top between dorades and companionway ‘turtle’.
2.
Topsides prepped and painted (rolled) with Devoe 2 part poly.
Yanmar 3GM30 rebuilt (by Mike Collins) and fitted. Engine room reorganized with diesel day tank in battery area, hand transfer pump from lower tank. Battery stowage and cockpit locker to port reorganized with removable panels for engine/stern tube access. Hurricane anchor, 300ft line and some chain, spare lines etc.,etc stowed.
Water heater installed under Q-berth.
Two elec. Bilge pumps fitted and a/c battery charger in cockpit locker area.
Re-wired whole boat with single panel on side of chart table. (The several original were still there
Installed pressurized water and filters etc and re-plumbed whole boat, added shower in head).
Refrig. installed in icebox next to the galley sink (Isotherm sp. – cools through a special heat exchange seacock for the galley sink.
Engine room door replaced (ladder ok)
Chart table top and area to starb. Re-built to take radios/chartplotter etc.
Q-berth area re-built (this had been torn apart and I have no idea what it was like originally. Included re-paneling between it and the engine room
Propane alarm and 1000w inverter fitted. All lights LED or high efficiency fluorescent.
Entire headliner had been removed. Paneled-in everywhere with teak trim. Wainscotting for deckhead.
Main bulkhead (by mast) replaced and various small changes to head compartment.
Lower port bunk back moved back to make it wider and area above shelved etc.
Forard end made into an ‘L’ (against the bulkhead) to accommodate a 20 g holding tank.
Shower sump fitted with a hand pump in head – emptying into a ‘Y’ on the head sink outlet .New seacocks installed. Head inlet also ‘Y’d in here so that one can close the seacock and pump bleach solution through the head for cleaning (it’s the head inlet hose that causes the stink!) Learnt this whilst running charter boats in the Carribean.
New sole with ¾” t&g bamboo (the old one had been ripped out!?). cut access hatch for the fuel tank (cleaned-out).
6” pvc pipe to shoot main anchor (35lb.CQR) chain (200ft) aft, from deck, to middle (under) forward bunk (if using more than 50 or 60 ft., it still piles-up and needs raking aft!) Port anchor (Bruce) with short chain and line stays in forepeak. Lockers added under forward bunk, on either side above chain area.
Various repairs to forward cabin/doors etc.
New bunk cushions, upholstery and curtains made. Also cockpit cushions (open cell foam).
Hanging Aladdin lamp to be fitted – had one on every boat since the ‘6os. Provides quite a bit of heat and same light as a pressurized one.
Tim Balfour/Jennifer Smart – Oriental NC
Tim here are your pictures 🙂
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
[Image Can Not Be Found]
Offline
Tim,
If you can email me the pictures at scott@scottcarle.com I will put them up for you.
Any elaborations you would like to do would probably be appreciated by all. They will be searchable by everyone and will add to the overall knowledge base. That's what we are all here for is to share what little bit each of us know and hopefully compile a comprehensive body of knowledge for all.
Just add any elaborations as additional posts under this topic.. maybe later on if you want we can put up a page for Pelli on the main website under the DE32 section with the other featured DE32's.
Scott
Offline
Tim
I got the pictures and replied to your email but I got a reply back from yahoo saying your email address doesn't exist.. not sure what the problem is.. I am just going to post what I replied here.
Tim they came through fine.. I can use these if you want but they are
all pretty small. It looks like you used some sort of software to shrink
the filesize down to almost a thumbnail sized image. If you can send me
the originals, I can put them up.. or something a little larger than
these if it's possible. I have my own server that I host the site on so
size of image files aren't really an issue. It's always nice with the
larger pictures so that people can blow them up and get a good look at
details. 🙂 I know that more than once I have zoomed in on hi res photos
on the site and found little details on someones boat that I thought
"wow thats cool" and actually used that idea. I would never have seen it
on a thumbnail sized picture.
Just let me know... If it's to much trouble I will just use these. 🙂
Scott
Offline
timbalfour said:
Scott – not sure if this is the right place for this – basically just a list of the work I did on Pelli for our records. I can elaborate on specific items, if anyone is interested, and email the before and after pics. Sorry I couldn’t work out how to post them.
1. (of 2)
Wow she looks great! That is a lot of work, but I would say it was worth it! I absolutely love tan bark sails, they look good with the hull color. I was out on the Sloop Woody Guthrie(a replica of the old river ferry boats), and she has tan bark sails, but when we realized the the navigation lights were not working it was kind of scarry having dark sails at night with no lights! Though the captin made a joke about how good they are for stealth sailing at night. But she has a green hull, and and tanbark sails.
Offline
Man that is amazing looks fantastic mate !!!
Im really impressed with the way she looks
Martin
Offline
It't difficult to find tan sailcloth here in the States (of siutable weight). I have previously imported cloth from The UK or France, cheaper even after customs duty, than US made. Must be the one exception as everything else is 50% more expensive over there!! These sails were made by my ex, in France and sent over by UPS (less hardware etc, which I did over here). Arrived very quickly with the bill for shipment attached (very trusting of them!). They were classified by customs as - "silk veils" ??? - the only thing I can think of, is that it ryhmes with "sail" (but that wouldn't work in French). The duty was minimal. My ex and I, made sails long ago in England in the time of canvas and hemp, with sewn-on boltropes and cringles etc., for ex-working sailing oyster smacks and Thames Barges. She later became professional and worked for herself in the south of Spain for many years. Now in southern France where my daughter owns a 90ft dutch barge that she and her husband charter, mostly on the Canal du Midi.
The hull colour is the same as many of the wooden sailing work boats in England. They had all been tarred originally, so that if one wanted a colour the only thing that would stick and not leach through, was a tar based paint called Rotorista. It was only available in three colours - this dark olive green, a dark brick red and a medium slatey blue. In the 60s and 70s, I owned a couple of east coast oyster smacks and shared an 80' sailing barge ( all without engines!) and now all well over 100yrs old - still going strong.
Tim 'Pelli' - DE32
Offline
Would your Ex be interested in orders from other DE owners? If so you should post her contact info and prices for sails here.. I would be there would be some interest from others for tanbark sails. 🙂
scott
Offline
Looks beautiful! Very inspiring for my rebuild.
Offline
I've e-mailed to see if she's interested.
Note that the weight/measurements in Europe are sometimes in metric or the old UK system of oz/sq yard. Here in the States, sailcloth is measured in oz/yard by a lttle over 2ft!! so you need to do a conversion or you'll get a rather heavy sail!
Note that the darker the cloth (and thread) the more resistant to UV - so they'll last a lot longer and you don't have to worry so much about getting the covers on all the time.
Tim 'Perlli' DE32
Offline
A couple of questions:
1. What brand of paint (and specific color) did you use on the hull? I love that green, I am considering something like that for my cove-stripe.
2. What are the white panels you used in the cabin roof/sides? Are they formica, painted plywood, something else? Also, did you glue those to the cabin sides/top or use firring strips to screw into?
Offline
I have used Devoe's 2 part poly on various boats for nearly 20 years now. Same stuff as Imron etc but half the price. Not too easy to use - needs a lot of thinning with the correct brushing/rolling thinner) and you have to keep moving - in dry,not too hot weather, as you cannot go back over what you've done. Needs at least 4 hrs before any chance of dew or rain although it appears touch-dry in a very short time. I always just roll it on as trying to keep up tipping can make a mess.
The colour is a one-off, matching a paint I used on old wooden sailing oyster dredgers in England (a tar based paint called Rotorista - which only came in three colors). Those boats had originally been tarred and only tar-based paints would stick!! Devoe can mix any colour you want.
The cabin deckhead is thin, beeded wainscotting (western red cedar, which is rot-proof) and the sides a good quality 1/4" ply (both from the hardware store), screwed or/and brad-pinned to firring strips that had been epoxied/screwed on. The edges covered with teak trim, some flat, others 1/4 round.
Inside and cabin outside also painted with 2 part poly (cream) - but be carefull inside - it and the fumes are really toxic, so wear a proper mask that can cope with chemical stuff.
Once you have used this paint (and got used to coping with the difficulties) you'll never use anything else. It is virtually bullet proof, lasst pretty much for ever and can be re-coated without much, if any prep. Touching-up shows up though, so you have to do the whole section, if you are fussy.
Hope this is helpful - Tim 'Pelli' DE32
Most Users Ever Online: 120
Currently Online:
12 Guest(s)
Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)
Top Posters:
Jonathan Oasis: 174
bobmcd625: 165
CAE: 150
mgav451: 143
Rick: 94
svbodhran: 84
Member Stats:
Guest Posters: 7
Members: 364
Moderators: 1
Admins: 1
Forum Stats:
Groups: 3
Forums: 13
Topics: 744
Posts: 3833
Newest Members:
Spirare, BradHartliep, Duncan, MistyDawn, realitysailing, Kwally@sbmnModerators: Patrick Twohig: 134
Administrators: Scott Carle: 1480
