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Compression post installation ideas?
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mgav451
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December 26, 2017 - 2:18 pm
Member Since: September 27, 2017
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I ripped out the measly compression post. Here's a few pics. It's designed( or at least mine was) ,well I wouldn't give them credit as to say it's designed. It's threw in there and the compression post that ties into the bulkhead and the head door isn't actually under the mast rather just aft of it. So it's basically useless other then to create a fulcrum for the mast to sink into and crush the deck . That sits offset from a wooden post that's glassed to the keel (we all know wood isn't a good material for in the bilge area. Apparently DE engineers never got that memo). Which IS centered, however the compression post sits on the aft  2"of it and the shower pan. Very poor design like just about everything else on this boat no wonder DE is out of biz. I'm surprised alot more of the de 32s haven't had deck/structural issues. So I've ripped all the junk haphazard junk DE put in there and I'm gonna add a proper compression post that runs from the keel up to the deck. I've cut  a 3x3 square hole I'll slide a stainless box beam down to the hull and to the top under the deck. However it'll still be aft of the mast. I was planning on cantilever in a plate to sit inder the mast.to transfer the load back to it. I drew a pic of it... The mast is off the boat and I can see how this poor design has crushed the deck fore of the mast. At this point like much else with this boat I think it's a total loss and I'm gonna have to close off the head door and put a compression post under the mast.since that's where common sense would say to put a compression post! If not one would assume they would make it a proper deck step! Agravation after agravation with this boat! What were they thinking!!!!! Ok I'm done venting now.i was wondering what others have done I was thinking of possibly creating a bridge where the head door Arch is and adding a second foreward where the doors hinged..any one care to weigh in? Heres some pics...and the cantilever idea. And the briged compression post idea..20171226_125215.jpgImage Enlarger

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mgav451
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December 26, 2017 - 2:25 pm
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i probably shouldn't be bashing my boat but it makes you wonder 

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Scott Carle
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December 27, 2017 - 1:14 pm
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Totally understand your frustration. That does sound like bad design.. I think that mine is under the mast on a DE38 but again haven't taken it apart. I have no issues though with deformation of the deck. You are not the only person to have to replace that on a DE32, DE38, DE45 etc..

 

These boats at the newest are 34 years old and at the oldest 44 years old if I remember my dates right. So two things your running into..

1st.. its a boat. Boats on water always need maintenance.

2nd.. its an old boat which requires a lot of maintenance on a regular basis as stuff wears out even past the normal maintenance.

Next things to remember

most people purchasing one of these want a livaboard boat they can afford. To buy a new comparable boat would cost you 750,000 dollars or more for this heavy of a design with all the teak, and as much space and storage. You could get a beneteau or other comparable boat but people love these boats for their design. they are a true blue water design with a comfortable motion and a huge amount of headroom, storage and amenities. The maintenance is just a given on this old of a boat. I could have never afforded a new boat much less one with this kind of fitout. for less than a 10th of that new boat I got something that I ended up doing projects on a fair amount, but was comfortable to live on, I was comfortable taking beyond sight of land or across oceans, and turn's everyone else's head that see's it. Lot's of people love the look and will introduce themselves to get a look at it. 🙂

 

So take a deep breath.... let the stress go and just get her done... you know you love your boat. All of us understand this type of frustration, it comes with limited resources and expensive dreams. Don't let it get you down or stop the dream.

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Scott Carle DE38 Cutter s/v Valkyr
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jimha
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December 29, 2017 - 6:17 am
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@mgav451

Had a similar idea on distributing the force of the mast.  If you look at the Forum category "Sales and Rigging" and then at the topic;Compression of Deck? Mast Support? etc.. you will find my views and attempt to address this issue.  (with pictures).  Hope this helps.

Have to agree with Scott about the DE38.  A good honest boat that has stood the test of time and use for me.  It owes me nothing after owning this boat since 1979. 

Cheers and beers,

Jim

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mgav451
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January 8, 2018 - 2:05 pm
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Jeez I was a little ticked off when I wrote that! I had to apologize to my boat after that day.sorry for the rant

  Any how I welded up a new compression post of 304ss ( totally over killed it).  Made a seat of g10 and stainless angle ,that I’ll through bolt the post to , and epoxy the whole thing to the floor( I had to chamfer a 1/2 pice of g10 from 0 to 1/2 inch over the span of 3”) this will ensured the post sits level on the floor since the floor is curved there. Then I got 3x3 ss box beam and welded a 6 x12 plate with gussets to cantilever and distribute the load back to the off centerd compression post. I’ll hammer in a 1/2” piece of g10 between the top of the plate and the coach roof.after I cut the old one out , and had to take an inch or so off the bulk head to get it centered side to side, I used a multi tool to cut a 3 x3 hole rightdown to the floor ,so I can just slide the new one in. I left the compression post in 2 pieces in order to fit in place, once in place I’ll weld it together on the boat. The trick part was laying it out and keeping the existing arches for the door and keep the door. So it’s 17” aft from the hinge side of the door ( this will allow the door to be reused) that’s why the gussets look so goofy and uneven it’s to accomadate the door and the arch. I’m gonna use 1/2 bolts through bolt the mast boot into the top of the compression post and run some 6guage wire off that to a dyna plate  for  ( cross your fingers) lightning protection. The old wires came down the mast and through the cabin which was a problem for leaking on top of bulkhead causing rot and a variety of problems. This will be remedied by exiting wires out the side of the mast and making a goose neck to bring wires into the cabin. I’ve read some boats were cored there where the mast sits, Mines a 77 and is solid 1/2 fiberglass there. Id like to say thanks for the de forum I’ve read a lot and learned a lot from other people’s posts. Which is the reason for this post if some one would like to improve upon my idea or duplicate it in the future. I feel ( and I’m no pro ) the compression post and the wooden spreaders leave room for improvement. I plan on some ocean crossings and want to be sure...here’s some pics.. 

p.s. the whole mast boot I designed was only due to the fact I only cut a 3x3 slot to drop the post into the bilge so I could not make a flange on the bottom and just bolt it down. It’s this 3x3 slot which also made it necessary to make the post in 2 pieces rather then one section. I opted for this rather then cutting a section of the sole out jus so the integrity of the cabin sole wouldn’t be compromised. But if you cut a bigger section of the floor out it may be easier. The 304 ss cost me 250$ and 24”x24” 1/2” g10 was 60$ from defender. I tig welded it myself with 308ss wire.

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mgav451
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January 8, 2018 - 2:15 pm
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mgav451
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January 8, 2018 - 5:56 pm
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Yes yes I just read your post under sails and rigging..same situation th crooked compression post you have is just like mine there’s a 3x3? Block of wood which is wrapped in finerglass mine was the same and I almost left if since it sounded solid upon knocking and didn’t appear to be rotted but once I drilled a pilot hole it was completely rotted. The fiberglass they wrapped the wood with was pretty heavy so that alone was holding things in place. I didn’t think of your jack screw idea! That’s great idea. I was just gonna make a g10 wedge and hammer it on top between the post getting me a 1/2 inch of lift I’m wondering how I can devise a screw jack instead jack it up and slide a Dutchman in there and weld it.......

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mgav451
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January 8, 2018 - 5:59 pm
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Ps  stainless contracts pretty hard when welded so making 2 welds rather then one will be doubly hard to do with out distorting the post. You gotta weld it hot fast and on opposite sides.

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