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Cabin top strengthening - stiffeners
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Erick
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March 18, 2011 - 12:44 pm
Member Since: October 12, 2009
Forum Posts: 83
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I am coming to an exciting milestone in the rebuilding of Windsong: deconstruction is nearly complete and now repairs and upgrades can begin!  I need to get my plan in line for the following projects before I start painting the decks:

  • Cabin top stiffeners/supports
  • Bulkhead repair/replacements
  • Compression post repair/replacements
  • Plans for the large windows
  • Healiner replacement

First off is to improve the cabin tops and get them secure before I start painting the decks.  In the process of deconstruction I removed all of the old stiffeners on the cabin tops, all of the old compression posts, and windows.  With all of those gone, the cabin top sagged alarmingly and flexes a bunch when walked on (which I try to avoid).  I’ve put up some temporary compression posts to support it while I am working and they seem to do a decent job.  I want these repairs finished before priming and painting the decks since extra flexing would probably distort a good paint job.

The old stiffeners were molded and gelcoated fiberglass “box” shaped stringers with a teak beam as trim and molded in bases for dome lights.  These were screwed into the cabin top and glued with some thickened resin.  Once the screws were removed, the glue separated pretty easily and removal wasn’t much of an issue.  These pictures show what the stiffeners looked like before I tore everything apart.  I don’t have many pictures of just the ceiling, so just look at the top to figure out what I’m talking about.

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I may re-use the old ones since they are already sized for the boat, but would add a few layers of glass on the edges to permanently secure them to the cabin top.  However, I am not too keen on the molded light bases, which would make my headliner paneling difficult to cut.  An alternative would be to glass in some lower profile stiffeners in the same spots as the old ones, using something like cardboard tube or shaped foam as a base then glassing them in.  Then I could attach my overhead panels to these and use the old teak trim from the original stiffeners to hide the seams of the panels.

Here is what the cabin top looks like now, bare:

 

I have options written here, but if you know of something I haven't thought of or have any experience with these upgrades/repairs please chyme in.

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svbodhran
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March 18, 2011 - 4:47 pm
Member Since: January 22, 2010
Forum Posts: 84
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Hey Erick,

 

Nice job on the demolition.  It interesting to know how much those little stringers do to firm up the cabin.  Still, the 32 at least needs more.  I never notice my cabin flexing in a seaway, but after a couple of hard days beating to windward, I always need to re-caulk the windows.  I even found a pretty good crack in on of them after getting to New Zealand last year.  If I ever get access to a woodshop and some decent timber, I've thought about glassing in a couple of knees on each side to try and firm things up.  I'm sure glassing in the stringers better would help, but it'd be even better if you could add some material to run them down the side of the cabin a bit.  Also, what are you planning to do about the windows?  Personally I'd like to fill them with plywood, glass over them and add some more, smaller opening ports.  If you do just replace the old ones, let me advise against untinted lexan.  I replaced mine back in 2006, by 2008 you could barely see out of them and, as I said,  I had one crack on me last year.  I've heard that acrylic is a better option, but I don't have any experience with it myself.  Tinted lexan might prevent some UV damage, but I think that most of the "hazing over" in the windows comes from salt.

 

Good luck and I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out,

Jason
DE32 Bodhran

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