Transmission Removal on DE38 Engines and Such Forums

Yeah, if I were to do it again, I'd not recommend my jerry rigged solution of using ratchet straps, though it was surprisingly effective.  It was nice that I didn't have to block the entrance to the engine room so I could still sit back in there.  However, getting it back down was not so fun, basically had to undo them one at a time so it didn't drop the engine back on the mounts.  The mounts are probably worn out and I could stand to replace them, but I don't see how I can get to the backing plate on the aft mounts without pulling the whole engine out of there.  I'm afraid that if I undo the bolts on the aft mounts you'd just hear a nut fall into the bilge followed by the sound of me softly weeping.

After I got in there it wasn't so intimidating, I haven't gotten a call from the dockmaster telling me that the boat is sinking, so that's good too.  I did all this in the marina without the help of a boatyard so it's good to know that I can get to the engine in a pinch without needing to have vessel assist tow me.

The good news is that the transmission repair shop actually turned around the repair rather quickly.  Evidently the gearbox and clutches are fine, but the shift assembly had some corrosion in it that prevented it from operation.  They dunked it in some diesel and I guess it's bench testing fine now.  So I know my project for this weekend -- getting that back in the boat.

I went and picked up one of these today which should help me align the engine back on it's mounts. http://www.harborfreight.com/1.....t-996.html  If I were to do the project again, I'd probably use this from the start.

I'd offer to help you with your engine, but I sadly live on the wrong coast....ha!  I guess my next project is rebuilding the gooseneck when my new welder shows up!  Happy sailing.

Yeah, they put a hard vang on the boat but left the swiveling boom so the hard vang is getting all bent out of shape.  I'm going to be pulling the end cap off, making a new clevis and fitting it to the existing gooseneck.  When that's done, I'll have it heat treated at a shop for maximum strength.

What part is cracked, the stainless or the aluminum part of the gooseneck?  If it's stainless, I'd take it off the mast, grind out the crack and refill it with a stick welder, then grind it flat again.  Stainless is a really poor heat conductor so it warps all to hell when you weld it.  I'd guess when it was welded they left some internal stresses in the parts.  How old is it?