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Hi,
Trying to replace the cutless bearing w/o removing the prop shaft. Now, there are two set screws diametrically opposed from one another on the outside of the shaft log that came right out. Question is, is there another set screw buried under the glass forward of these two exposed screws? I ask because I tried twisting the exposed cutless bearing with a pipe wrench with no success. Thanks!!!
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I would say that it is glued into place with sealant or epoxy etc.. you might try and heat up the fitting before turning. I don't think there would be another setscrew but don't know for shure. The other thought would be to unbolt the fitting it is going through and take both off at once and then separate them.
scott
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Scott Carle said:
I would say that it is glued into place with sealant or epoxy etc.. you might try and heat up the fitting before turning. I don't think there would be another setscrew but don't know for shure. The other thought would be to unbolt the fitting it is going through and take both off at once and then separate them.
scott
Considered removing the entire cutless bearing housing but I have read that the part is bedded in 5200 or some other robust adhesive. I suppose I could try it and if it doesn't come off, assume that it is 5200 and get the solvent, drill some holes around the housing to loosen the stuff and go from there. I doubt the bearing itself is epoxied in place but certainly is a tight interference fit!
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I think you'll find it nearly impossible to replace the cutless bearing (cutless / cutlass, anyone want to clue me in on which is the right spelling?) with the shaft in place. I replaced mine last year, when I had the engine out. I was able to pull the shaft into the boat, which allowed me to pull the bearing and press in a new one. The bearing is typically just pressed into place, without any epoxy or adhesive. There is a good tutorial at http://www.pbase.com/mainecrui....._a_cutlass , which I followed with a surprising amount of success. One recommendation I have is to try and find a fine-thread threaded rod for the installation, as it gives a better mechanical advantage.
You might be able to undo the top motor mount nuts, and either jack or hoist the engine up to allow the shaft to be pulled into the boat. It sound difficult, but the alternative would be to pull the rudder which is something I haven't tackled, and frankly don't want to!
Good luck!
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Would'nt it be nice to have an outboard hung rudder and no inboard engine with a big hole through the bottom of the boat for a shaft and cutlass.
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Dougm said:
I think you'll find it nearly impossible to replace the cutless bearing (cutless / cutlass, anyone want to clue me in on which is the right spelling?) with the shaft in place. I replaced mine last year, when I had the engine out. I was able to pull the shaft into the boat, which allowed me to pull the bearing and press in a new one. The bearing is typically just pressed into place, without any epoxy or adhesive. There is a good tutorial at http://www.pbase.com/mainecrui....._a_cutlass , which I followed with a surprising amount of success. One recommendation I have is to try and find a fine-thread threaded rod for the installation, as it gives a better mechanical advantage.
You might be able to undo the top motor mount nuts, and either jack or hoist the engine up to allow the shaft to be pulled into the boat. It sound difficult, but the alternative would be to pull the rudder which is something I haven't tackled, and frankly don't want to!
Good luck!
I have seen 'cutlass' and 'cutless'; both ways, but it is my impression that the latter is correct. I have considered raising the engine but, oh man what a pain. Removing the transmission coupling and the prop shaft fflange allows me to slide the prop shaft up into the bearing. Hoping that maybe I can twist the bearing out with a pipe wrench sincee it is sticking out. Tried this puller but the threaded rod bent; going to try hardened bolts. *gulp*
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I have done this 2 times, first time I used a big pipe wrench and deformed the cutlass and then used a sazall blade (5" or so) in a pair of vice grips to cut through just the cutlas bearing being very careful not to go to far. I then used a hammer and punch to close the gap made by the cut, the cutlass came out very easy with just my fingers. I did take the top bolts off the motor mounts to lift the engine and slide the shaft out inside. With the new cutlass it was very easy to align the engine again as I did have a slight vibration, I did this before I put the prop on, worked great. The second time it came out very easy as I didn't use such a big wrench just undid the 2 set screws and twisted it out, 1/2 hour job, it slid out right over the shaft and I did have the new one in the freezer for a day and it was easy compared to the first time I did it. You might try some freeze spray that you can get at an electronic supply store to freeze the cutlass as it will shrink and come out easier. there is only the 2 setscrews that I saw, 1977 DE 32. On another note there is now 3 DE's in the yard at Demopolis, Al. (2-32's and one 38). Is the owner of the other 2 on this board ?? We have owned Chip Ahoy for 15 years now and have had her there now for 4 years (just summers) but do want to move her to Florida as the rivers are getting old real fast, water is so high we can't get under the bridge this year, sucks, as it is WINTER where we are right now.
Scotty
svchipahoy
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Question is,is there another set screw buried under the glass forward of these two exposed screws?
Hi Gents,
I found this elswhere on this site so thought it may help although this is for a DE38. Also my DE38 uses a morse bonito cutlass bearing.
Best Regards, David.
Out of this you will see about 1/2 inch of the cutlass bearing. You will also notice a grub (set) screw on the port side –remove this. Exactly 2 ins forward of this grub screw (on the same side) is another one,hidden under the fiberglass. You can either move the whole stern tube back or drill through the fiberglass (I recommend drilling). Remove the second screw.
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