Anyway, I seldom see more than 50 amps when using the windlass, typical draw is more like 20-25 amps. I'm sure it's occasionally spiked above that, but I'm not generally below looking at the ammeter when using the windlass. In any case, a brief spike of ~100 amps isn't going to cause significant heat build up in the wire or anything like that. You can hear the motor change 'tone' when it's being overworked and I always stop operation when that happens. If the breeze is on or there is a lot of current, I have my wife motor forward so we're not using the windlass motor to pull the boat. Over working the electric motors is what kills them. If I were single-handing, and in a blow, I'd use the manual backup on the windlass, rather than burn out the electric motor.

Beam me up, Scotty!

I understand the calculations for sizing the cables, but Lewmar recommend 2AWG for round trips of 50 to 80 ft.

In the DE38 we have about 60 ft from battery bank to anchor locker and back.  I have, accordingly, proceeded to buy and install 2 AWG cables (not connected yet).

I hope this will be OK.  I guess that the windlass will very seldom use all 1000 watts and if/when it does it will be for a short time.  I just found another table which says that 10% loss is OK for a windlass and that 60 ft of 2 AWG will handle up to 100 amps.   Let's hope that's true!

Another point is that Lewmar recommend a 110 amp breaker which I have bought, but I was thinking that a 100 amp breaker might be a safer option.

I might have a chat with the Lewmar techies to get my head clear!

All the best

Bob

Cheers,

Jim

http://downeasteryachts.com/fo.....n-sc#p3575

Thanks so much for your electrical system details.  Impressive!

But forget my electric problems for a minute and let us know how you are faring in the face of Florence?

Looks pretty bad.  We are scheduled to flying RD in one week and wonder what it will be like.  Not looking good at this point.

Best wishes.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/

Here is an old writeup I did about my setup.
http://downeasteryachts.com/ar.....hives/2107

Thanks for those tips.  When I said 80 ft that means both ways (a round trip or "home run" as some folks say.  It's only a 38 ft boat!  The house bank is aft of the engine.  I have been planning on buying 50 ft of black and 50 ft of red to get a bulk discount, but I'll look into welding cable.  Always happy to save a few $$$.

I can see that that space under the settee would be ideal for a dedicated battery.

I am confused by your cable size, Jim.  Lewmar says that for a run (both ways) of 80 to 110 ft they recommend No. 1 AWG.  My windlass is also 1000 w.  Lewmar recommend a 110 amp Circuit Breaker which I'll also use as an on/off switch. For run of under 50 ft they say use No 4 AWG.  For my 80/100 ft I was thinking of No. 1 AWG.  Your No. 0 is larger.  I guess you mean the cable between the dedicated battery and the windlass.  Is that right?  But still I would think that cable could be smaller.  What size wire do you have connecting the battery to the boat's system for charging?  

Also curious as to where you ran the cable from the settee to the windlass.  I am thinking of going straight forward through the lockers in the forepeak and into the anchor locker before going up through the deck and connecting to the windlass itself.  Is that what you did?

Many thanks to you both for your good insights.  Still pondering which way to go.  !

Cheers,

Jim

In storage area under v-berth seat

or in floor of v-berth starboard closet with a a floor built over the top of it that you can just drop in place. I put my Isolation transformer in this location. It is a bit larger than a battery and about 80 lbs. Has worked out well Doesn't really take any usable space away from other stuff.

Also I would definitely go with gel or agm up there. You don't want to deal with standard lead acid there. That area of the boat really gets to bouncing in bad weather much worse than engine compartment. Double heavy duty retaining system for battery also.

Nice to hear that all is well.  Ah yes, kids!  I remember that period well.  It passes all to quickly!

I hope they are enjoying sailing.  One of my two did get into it, but the other didn't.  I now have a 9 year old grandson who is into Optis.  Hope he sticks with it.

After re-reading your post I am going to re-think the separate battery plan. I do see the advantages and installation is not too much more work.  Have to find a good location, size the battery and the cables of course.  More fun...

Fair winds

I have heard different things about soldering. I think it is a mute point if you use the DI-electric grease and heat shrink the joints. I have some soldered and some just crimped. Actually now that I think about it way more are just crimped. I purchased a crimper that is the size of a large bolt cutter for my cable ends. You have to be careful not to destroy the end with it because of how much power it can bring to bear. The only way to undo an end is simply cut it off and put a new one on if you mess it up. I spent a lot of money and time on my battery setup and all bigger cables. so far it has paid off in systems that I can pretty much ignore maintenance wise.

I did a bit of a clean up and refurb on the boat a few months ago to move her from sitting for the last 5 or 6 years and gave the cables a good look at to make sure I didn't have any issues. They looked like I had just put them in a few weeks earlier. Had to replace batteries and when I pulled cables off again it just looked like I had just put them on. Those batteries were at least 8 years old. I was seriously tired of doing wiring and ends and the meticulous attention to detail for every connection I did when I did it but it has paid off massively in the long run. (figure I spent about 4 times as long on every run of cable over just crimping ends on and connecting it)