I'll have to find a small jack!

As you say, it's worth a shot!

Thanks.

take a couple pieces of 3/4 inch ply on either side inside the box on the bowed out sections.. put simple hydrolic jack between the two and see if you can push it flat. if it is expanding foam and not to dense you can probably crush it a little flatter behind the bowed out sections. Or you might break the liner in the box, or rip the whole box up 🙂 lol.. if you do it do it slowly and carefully.

Scott Carle said
The sides should not be convex. sounds like foam insulation that expanded and warped the sides. No good ideas on fixing other than tearing out and replacing. More work than I would want to do... but   with convex sides im not sure how much space your losing or if it will affect installation of fridge equipment.  

Thanks, Scott.  Volume is not a huge issue for me as we are only casual users of this boat, but for legacy it would be nice to get it right.

Maybe a little "plastic surgery" would work.  At least one side where the fridge coils are mounted would be nice to have plumb.

Never a dull moment, eh?

Jim

The installation seems straight forward enough, especially with You Tube videos to help.

My question here is the about the original ice box.  The sides are convex.  That is bowed out towards the inside.

At least that's how they are in my 1975 DE38.  Is that normal?  Seems pretty weird.  

As insulation of the fridge is important I am wondering if I should cut out those old walls, put in new, better insulation, and replace the walls with something (not sure what).

Another point is drainage.  There is a tray at the bottom of the ice box with large holes to let melted water run into the drain to the bilge.

I would of course want to keep the drain open but that space could be used for food/drink storage.  Maybe that tray could be fitted lower down in the box.

Thoughts?  Comments?

Thanks in advance.

Bob

one outboard of that was totally covered in spray foam under the sink etc... not sure how deep. we never used it for anything but dry storage and that was just stupid stuff we didn't ever use. If I had more money than sense I would turn it into a freezer with its own compressor. I think some of the new water cooled units would make a huge difference in performance and power used. We covered the top of the existing refrigerator unit in a piece of mirrored bubble wrap stuff (reflectix) cut to the shape of the whole countertop back there. Sewed a piece of nice beige vinyl onto it as a top. It was always cold between that and the top of the fridge even with new seals in the fridge. But top of it stayed room temp. Figure it helped maintain temp a lot. Kept intending to install a j trap under the drain to keep cold air from flowing out if it. its small 1/2 inch or so but I'm sure that added up over time.

I'm thinking it's going to be a trash can or more likely, dry storage.

And I'm not even sure the one forward of the stove has much insulation. Scott, do you put ice in that one and does it stay cold at all? I'm told you need 4" of closed cell insulation but I think that one has about 1" if anything.

I'm not expecting to keep ice cream, let's put it that way.

I would estimate that the two big ones are about 5 or 6 cubic feet each while the little small are just beside the sink is maybe 1.5 cubic feet in size. Best guestimate just picturing them in my head..

anyone else have a guess? We can see who has the best eye for estimating when Patrick or someone else actually measures it and reports back.