Downeaster Yachts.com - Topic: External chainplate relocation questions

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Sun, 14 Jan 2018 20:49:05 -0500

Also the factory made the holes square in the hull. So this isn’t as easy a job as I thought......errrrr so frustrating simple things

Scott Carle on External chainplate relocation questions

Sun, 14 Jan 2018 10:29:08 -0500

I did the same thing when doing my rigging.. moved up everything from 1/4 inch to the same size as the upper shrouds. kept it simple going to all stay lock fittings top and bottom and didn't add but a couple lbs to the weight aloft as it was just the lowers and whisker stays that changed if I remember right. That way I could carry one size of replacement wire and spare fittings. I think that the bob stay was the only other size and at it was comparatively huge.. just the two fittings for it sucked for cost.

jimha on External chainplate relocation questions

Sun, 14 Jan 2018 09:27:53 -0500

Looks like difference in rub rail is one of the differences between a DE32 and DE38. Not a big deal. If you are going to change your standing rigging, a few tips that saved me $1000. There is a firm in Connecticut that sells 1x19wire made of Nitronic 50 stainless. A good upgrade for little money. I used the same thickness of wire as the fore stay, for all of the rigging. I ordered the connectors (Stay lock) from a mail order house in England for a substantial discount to US prices. Pick up a British magazine to get phone numbers etc. Worth a look. To cut the wire, I used a vice, some masking tape, and a 32 tooth hacksaw blade. Easy peasy.

Cheers and beers,

Jim

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 17:11:13 -0500

Tensile strength for 304ss is 70,000lb

Bronze is 60,000

I looked into it and seems to fit the bill

Scott Carle on External chainplate relocation questions

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 17:01:42 -0500

mgav451 said
I used 3/8 bronze for the plates drills so easy and bends so easy. Hope the holes don't elongate. I didn't use cast bronze as you should but I hope it's gonna hold just as good. Im not sure the difference between the 2.

You really need to know what the tensile strength of your bronze is and that it is suitable to the loads your going to be carrying on it. I love good bronze. maybe a Silicon Bronze etc.. 3/8 sounds pretty good thickness of the top of my head but it's been a while since I did those numbers. This is an area you don't skimp in and make sure it is the right type of bronze and the right thickness. As to elongation of theholes.. only three reasons that should happen.

1. it is a softer bronze that deforms.

2.& 3. the holes are not perfectly round and exactly the diameter of the pins. The pins should fit snugly and the tension on the holes should be inline with the length of the chain plate. If it is pulling unevenly on the pin or the hole and pin don't fit snugly, over time the movement and tension will wallow the hole out and you will get more and more movement till something gives.

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 15:44:25 -0500

looking sssssalty

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 15:42:44 -0500

Yes that's the plan however I have the hull liner in there so I can't really get at it. Plus it's up in the toe rail nomans land there where you need a contortionist to get hands into. Should be ok. I used 3/8 bronze for the plates drills so easy and bends so easy. Hope the holes don't elongate. I didn't use cast bronze as you should but I hope it's gonna hold just as good. Im not sure the difference between the 2.These really are nice looking boats! I got painting and cosmetics to do but with this compression post and chain plates she should be ready for a beating! I did notice the pics of others chain plates there's 5 bolts as opposed to 4 mine are 24 iinches long 1&1/2 wideand 3/8 thick same as the old SS ones just 3/8 rather then a 1/4 inch. Think I'm ok? I've got the mast down holy hell that thing is like a telephone pole very roubust which makes me happy. I guess the cutter rig allows for smaller standing rigging? I've got 7/16 pins on the stays and shrouds and 1/2 on the fore and aft. Seemed a little on the small side from what I'm used to seeing.

Scott Carle on External chainplate relocation questions

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 15:28:49 -0500

It looks as if it is a hollow fiberglass tube where you cut into it. Is that correct? hole doesn't go all the way into the inside of boat?

If so then I would think just make some epoxy bog and use a little glass to fill it in and shape it to be flat at the external hull level and shape the protruding part on either side to look nice. I don't think you would have lost a huge amount of structural strength. Maybe backfill the hollow inside of tube for a few inches on either side with glass and epoxy to give it rigidity right there.

Scott

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 13:14:34 -0500

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Sat, 13 Jan 2018 12:45:11 -0500

This is what I was afraid of! Maybe you guys have a solid rub rail? Or yours was locally filled in? Hmmm should I be afraid of structural integrity compromised here? Advice?

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Mon, 08 Jan 2018 13:30:56 -0500

Ohh yes thanks that’s exactly the picture I was looking for. And the “ rib” I was speaking of was the rubrail (where the paint transitions from blue to white). Looks as if It will grind out and not leave a hole open there if so I guess I’ll fill it in from there.

jimha on External chainplate relocation questions

Fri, 29 Dec 2017 12:26:46 -0500

@mgav451

Don't know about that extra "little rib". Perhaps you have a male boat and I have a female boat. ) The important thing is to have the chain plate flush to the hull. Did have to grind off part of the wood cap rail, and the poor excuse for a rub rail. Have fun.

Cheers'

Jim

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Mon, 25 Dec 2017 15:01:22 -0500

I just pulled my chainplates out. You said you just ground that little “rib” out? Almost looks like it’ll leave a hole there if I grind it flush?

jimha on External chainplate relocation questions

Mon, 11 Dec 2017 10:02:18 -0500

Moved chain plates to the outside of hull about 12 yrs ago. Used the same chain plates, but polished and inspected very carefully. Had to replace two of them due to cracks in stainless. Used most of the same bolts and original nuts, but did change some of them. No need for backing plates, as the hull has been reinforced in this area and there was no sign of deformation of holes in hull. Used the old chain plates as a pattern for making the new ones. Have fun making the square holes. Used as small square file. Wasn't that big of a deal. Angle of bend was duplicated using a big vice. Slight adjustments in angle are taken up buy standing rigging. Used an angle grinder on outside of the hull to make the chain plate lay flat against the hull. All and all a very easy job which stopped those pesky deck leaks.

Cheers and beers,

Jim

mgav451 on External chainplate relocation questions

Mon, 11 Dec 2017 08:22:44 -0500

I will do some searching on the compression post issues hopefully it won't be so bad. . I have got alot done on the boat so far I'll post some pics soon.